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All Locations > Utah > Jungle, on the… > Banshee Wall

Banshee Holiday

5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British


 Avg: 2 from 1 vote

Routes in Banshee Wall

67 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aibell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ban Cheese Pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Banshee Holiday T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Banshee Port Wing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Banshee Starboard Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Happy House S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into the Light. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jigsaw Feeling. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Keener, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Last but not least S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Longest Day, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mopping Up Banshee Gravy S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
My Ikran T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Bolt Wonder T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rain Stopped Play. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Siouxsie Sioux S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Solstice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Son of a Banshee S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sonic Bat Tsaheylu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Fer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Universal Conflicts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: R. Suggett (solo) days after the cleaning, anchor setting and working out the moves on a fixed line) & Holly Hansen (In very cold and windy conditions
Page Views: 180 total · 8/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Sep 20, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Unlike most Jungle lines, not at the start or the end, but dead center and the crux will most certainly work you. Once you get into the .75 finger lock, the grind will go straight forwardly. It is that mid-way transition that will make you wish for another holiday.

Location

Between Aibell and My Ikran and up on a hump that is a bit loose.

Protection

Small cams and nuts, BD .75 X 4, #2 & #3 x 1 as well as gear for the two bolt anchor that has a chain and a quick link.

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Banshee Holiday Topo
Banshee Holiday Topo
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Very tough in the mid section
Very tough in the mid section
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1 Comment

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Roy Suggett
  5.12a/b
Roy Suggett  
  5.12a/b
So...I do not know what to say. I try to stay out of the main stream and live day to to day, off the grid, while trying to find a good deed to do, and make the planet better. Which means, I have NO clue what to call what I did in terms of modern technical climbing jargon. Saw the line, knew it would be sweet, and as usual, under estimated it. Ran in to a 3rd wheel who graciously submitted to cold and wind to set this beast up. Then had to bail due to the cold. It later warmed up and I knew I only had a couple of weeks before the weather and my enthusiasm turned cold. So I set a fixed line anchored from the top and bottom with a directional in the middle. Aware that a mistake would leave me alone and frozen in my error, I did all that I knew to mitigate the possible issues. Using what I had (old brain and very old gear) I set a Gibbs to a chest harness and the original first generation Jumar to my regular climbing harness. Perhaps 40+ attempts over too many days, my muscle memory (not my brain memory) made the two moves needed and I pulled the thing clean (all the while sliding the old gear up the fixed line as I progressed). So, what do you call that? NOT an FA! Anyone wanting a REAL FA on this needs only to submit to the finger joint torture and mental fatigue this line demands, and it's yours (next season)! Sep 22, 2016

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