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Routes in Banshee Wall

My Ikran T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
67 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aibell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ban Cheese Pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Banshee Holiday T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Banshee Port Wing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Banshee Starboard Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Happy House S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into the Light. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jigsaw Feeling. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Keener, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Last but not least S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Longest Day, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mopping Up Banshee Gravy S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Bolt Wonder T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rain Stopped Play. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Siouxsie Sioux S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Solstice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Son of a Banshee S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sonic Bat Tsaheylu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Fer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Universal Conflicts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: Roy Suggett, Gene Vallee, and Andy Ross
Page Views: 114 total, 4/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Aug 30, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The crux is in my head. I am conflicted about this route. The first 2/3s of this trad line are three plus stars...the last third will make you ponder the truths of the universe. So perhaps the anchor should be moved down 15 ft.? The crack takes gear well and the liebacking is epic. Then you turn the small roof and see sketchy rock. So I put a bolt in here to give courage. If you want to add a bolt here and make it an anchor...be my quest...or thrash on with your belayer well out of range (we tried to clean, pry, and scrub but the blocks look so tenuous and yet refused to budge).

Location

Just south of the Banshee Perch (a small tower on a hump of talus) on the main wall. The crack is an obvious line.

Protection

BD .4 through #1 X 2, one QD for the one bolt, and runners for the anchor composed of two bolts, a chain and a quicklink (see FA rack photo).

Photos

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