Universal Conflicts [Edit]
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 60 ft|
|FA:||Roy Suggett, Gene Vallee, and Andy Ross|
|Page Views:||117 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Roy Suggett on Aug 30, 2015|
|Admins:||Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Andrew Gram|
The crux is in my head. I am conflicted about this route. The first 2/3s of this trad line are three plus stars...the last third will make you ponder the truths of the universe. So perhaps the anchor should be moved down 15 ft.? The crack takes gear well and the liebacking is epic. Then you turn the small roof and see sketchy rock. So I put a bolt in here to give courage. If you want to add a bolt here and make it an anchor...be my quest...or thrash on with your belayer well out of range (we tried to clean, pry, and scrub but the blocks look so tenuous and yet refused to budge).
Just south of the Banshee Perch (a small tower on a hump of talus) on the main wall. The crack is an obvious line.
BD .4 through #1 X 2, one QD for the one bolt, and runners for the anchor composed of two bolts, a chain and a quicklink (see FA rack photo).