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Routes in Banshee Wall

My Ikran T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
67 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aibell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ban Cheese Pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Banshee Holiday T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Banshee Port Wing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Banshee Starboard Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Happy House S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into the Light. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jigsaw Feeling. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Keener, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Last but not least S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Longest Day, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mopping Up Banshee Gravy S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Bolt Wonder T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rain Stopped Play. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Siouxsie Sioux S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Solstice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Son of a Banshee S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sonic Bat Tsaheylu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Fer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Universal Conflicts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 70 ft
FA: Roy Suggett & Zac Warren
Page Views: 153 total, 10/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Aug 21, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This colorful line grows progressively difficult as well as committing the higher you climb. The crux, as it often is in the Jungle, is at the very end. Here is also where the gear placements come. Up to that point you were clipping bolts. With the many and varied colored species of lichen on both your right and left as well as Bryce Canyon National Park at your back, this is an aesthetic line! The route is also a great warm up for the stiffer and fine lines to the north!

Location

Just about in the middle of the Banshee Wall between the Ban Cheese Pillar and the short route known as the "One Bolt Wonder". It is better to approach this line from the northerly descent(s) rather than come down the fixed line further south and then have to back track through some sketchy talus.

Protection

Five quick draws gets you past the first 5 bolts and to the crux move(s). Here you will want to have a Red C-3, BD .3 and .4. Pull through these moves to chains with a quick link.

Photos

BSU_Zac
 
BSU_Zac  
 
The furthest distance between pro is bolts 2 and 3 but climbing is casual and blocky. Climbers comfortable on 5.10 may only need a single 0.3 for the top but it'd be best to bring a few options as the crux can be pulled a few ways. This makes for a great warm up or a good line for the aspiring 5.10 leader as only two moves are above 5.9. Aug 21, 2016
Roy Suggett  
 
Although there may be some distance between bolts the climbing is on good rock and positive in those "blank" areas. IF you need gear in these spaces then wires and tricams may help but when you get to the top you will soon understand you are most likely out of your comfort level. Aug 21, 2016