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Routes in First Buttress

Carly Was With Us T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flash Dihedral (Knapp Version) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flash Dihedral (Rossiter Version?) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wandering Jew T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Deger, 1st pitch. Rick Romig, 2nd pitch
Page Views: 274 total · 13/month
Shared By: Paul Deger on Sep 18, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

P1: go up slope to vertical then left of large, protruding block into a 10 foot vertical crack (fist size). Once past the crack, it is blocky to a sloping ledge. With a 60m rope, you have only about 10 feet rope left. Anchor here.

P2: continue up a grungy dihedral with a small bushes to another vertical 6 foot crack (fist size). Once over the crack, it is an easy scramble to the top. Go about 30 feet until you hit the scramble.

The cruxes are the 2 vertical cracks. Both cracks have positive hands once you feel around and reasonable feet - it is a bit hairy on the sharp end. The remainder of route is 5.6.

There is lots of lichen all the way and a big, hollow-sounding flake on the vertical of P1.

Mid-September, nice shade entire route until about noon.

If someone has done this route, please let me know, and I can delete this entry.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the approach, once you arrive at the pipeline, go right. Start at a tiny leak in pipe, which sprays water towards the crag.

Protection [Suggest Change]

No bolts, there are lots of cracks for pro (all the way) and building anchors. We used small gear up to #1 cam, tricams, and larger nuts. I left a new green Camalot buried deep at bottom of the first crack.

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