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Routes in First Buttress

Carly Was With Us T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flash Dihedral (Knapp Version) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flash Dihedral (Rossiter Version?) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wandering Jew T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Deger, 1st pitch. Rick Romig, 2nd pitch
Page Views: 343 total · 14/month
Shared By: Paul Deger on Sep 18, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

P1: go up slope to vertical then left of large, protruding block into a 10 foot vertical crack (fist size). Once past the crack, it is blocky to a sloping ledge. With a 60m rope, you have only about 10 feet rope left. Anchor here.

P2: continue up a grungy dihedral with a small bushes to another vertical 6 foot crack (fist size). Once over the crack, it is an easy scramble to the top. Go about 30 feet until you hit the scramble.

The cruxes are the 2 vertical cracks. Both cracks have positive hands once you feel around and reasonable feet - it is a bit hairy on the sharp end. The remainder of route is 5.6.

There is lots of lichen all the way and a big, hollow-sounding flake on the vertical of P1.

Mid-September, nice shade entire route until about noon.

If someone has done this route, please let me know, and I can delete this entry.

Location

On the approach, once you arrive at the pipeline, go right. Start at a tiny leak in pipe, which sprays water towards the crag.

Protection

No bolts, there are lots of cracks for pro (all the way) and building anchors. We used small gear up to #1 cam, tricams, and larger nuts. I left a new green Camalot buried deep at bottom of the first crack.

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