Mountain Project Logo

Routes in First Buttress

Carly Was With Us T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flash Dihedral (Knapp Version) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flash Dihedral (Rossiter Version?) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wandering Jew T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Pat Ament, 1970?
Page Views: 5,351 total, 45/month
Shared By: James Beissel on Mar 27, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


40 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the route Flash Dihedral as shown in the topo in Knapp's guidebook. I am not sure if this is the line referred to as an "obvious dihedral" in Rossiter's guide. See the other entry for Flash Dihedral for what is likely the 5.8+ done by Ament et al.

Regardless, I really enjoyed this pitch. I liked it better than some of the other "classic" moderates on the Elephant Buttresses. It has clean rock, good fingerlocks, and solid gear. It's a worthy route and deserves its own entry.

Begin about 40' uphill from the toe of the First Elephant Buttress just left of an unstable looking, keg-sized boulder. Climb up about 10' of mungy rock to gain the clean double crack system that continues up the west corner of the buttress to the summit.

The crux comes about halfway up negotiating a triangular block and felt easier than the given rating of 5.8+ to me.

Location

This route is located on the west corner of the First Elephant Buttress. Approach via the standard trail and hike about 40' up the gully on the west side of the buttress. Descend by hiking north to meet the same gully and descend it back to your packs.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Trees and boulders at the summit for top rope anchors.
Tim Meehan
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Tim Meehan   Boulder, CO
  5.6
Outstanding first lead for the grade. Easy to get to, solid rock, offers finger-to-hand-sized pro the whole way, walk off. There are even a few ledges for those wanting to get comfortable with belay anchors and transitions. Apr 8, 2017
Eben Daggett
Boulder, CO
Eben Daggett   Boulder, CO
I LOVED the upper section of this route. Wish it was longer! Jun 16, 2013
Sean Haney  
 
I did a bit of a variation on this (see photo above) since Bob D'Antonio's new guidebook didn't have a photo, and I hadn't printed out the above photo. I was trying to go what looked to be the easiest route since my partner is still new to climbing, and the most protectable route since I'm new to trad leading. I got myself into a bit of a tough section (5.8 or so), but it was very short and also fun! Bomber pro the whole way, but most of it seemed to be the same size (0.4-0.5 C4s or medium nuts, or small tricams). Excellent belay ledge up top with bomber pro and a great view. Rock quality was great the whole way. Nov 11, 2011
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Did this route today since we walked right by it on the hike back from Standard Route (3rd Buttress). Glad we did it -- good easy fun. We started a bit lower than the red line in the Mtn Proj picture above, but veered left of the red line during our climb to stay on more vertical rock. There are so many cracks on this portion of the rock, you could climb it in dozens of ways. Difficulty depends on the line you take, could be made very easy if desired, but I thought the line we took on the left felt about 5.6ish in a few places. Jul 16, 2011
Fred Keith
Portsmouth & North Conway, NH
Fred Keith   Portsmouth & North Conway, NH
I came back out to Boulder a few weeks ago and did this route with an old bud after work.

Faced with Californihoards on the Dome etc it looked like an interesting option.

I kind of liked the route, relatively clean, and was amazed in all the years I'd lived there I had not done.

I agree with Phil that if you scheme to stay more left more on the upper part (slabs) as I did, it seemed a bit harder than 5.6.

I have to say I was a bit bummed before I read this post as that step across gave me a "sh*t...this is 5.4??" feeling.

I thought it was kind of a pretty steep-slabby type line. Better than some of the other blocky moderates on the EBs. Jun 30, 2009
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.5
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.5
Very surprised by the 5.7 rating of this climb. No harder than 5.5 IMO. I have done harder 5.4s at the Gunks! Sep 25, 2008
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.6
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.6
This felt really easy. I would rate it 5.6 at the most, maybe 5.5... I had to go back and do it straight up all the slabs without using the big cracks (on TR) to make it feel like a 5.8 Aug 24, 2008
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.5
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.5
This is a decent route, and I would recommend it as an excellent beginner trad lead. There are pro opportunities everywhere and the length is good for a first lead. The climbing felt like 5.5 or less to me.

A pink (0.5" I think) Camp tri-cam works perfectly at the horizontal crack at the crux in the middle of the route.

IMHO the standard route on the third buttress or the Owl/Cozyhang or even East Slab are substantially more fun in the area. May 24, 2008