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Routes in First Buttress

Carly Was With Us T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flash Dihedral (Knapp Version) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flash Dihedral (Rossiter Version?) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wandering Jew T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: P. Ament, 1970 (?)
Page Views: 1,145 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route lies on the first Elephant, and in that respect alone is a lonely route- I've never seen anyone else on it, and after having done it, would not recommend bothering with it. The route, according to Rossiter climbs an "obvious" dihedral on the NW aspect of the buttress. From the base and from along the way, the only really obvious dihedral looked like a log-jam of rock and dirt through an OW. I headed up nonetheless. Once there, I confirmed the junky dihedral appearance and instead headed up obvious handcracks just right of this dihedral. The line climbed Ok and protected pretty well on finger-to-hand sized gear and was loads more fun than the bomb-line in the dihedral. I strongly suspect that the original line is actually in these compelling cracks, not in the dihedral itself. The rock was quite rough and dirty from a lack of traffic. To descend, walk off the back the the East, then north and back west between the Elephants and The Dome towards the pipe (5 min).

Protection

A standard set of nuts and cams.

Photos

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James Beissel
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
I have to say the route described in Knapp's guide as Flash Dihedral is much better. Apr 20, 2008
shad O'Neel  
 
We climbed what is pictured as Flash Dihedral in Knapp's guide today. Clean cracks made for a fun route, but more of a 5.6 than 8+. Must not be what Pat Ament climbed in 1970, and doesn't sound like what T Bubb describes above, but offers a fun easy well protected 5.6 beginner lead not described anywhere else. Strange. Jan 2, 2004