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Routes in North-East Face

Absent Friends S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Egg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Da Mogwai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deviant, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Greenwood S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Ending Story, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pumpy Brewster S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sha Bi Ab Bi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Much Ecstasy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wonderful World S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Paul Collis et al (04/2007)
Page Views: 63 total, 4/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 12, 2016
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Wish I could give this a better rating, as it's a moderate multi-pitch up an amazing wall overlooking pastoral farmland, but alas...

The first pitch has two alternatives. The direct version looks better and should probably be posted as a separate entry by someone who does it. You can also traverse in from the cave, trending left along the slab, crossing Never-ending Story. Move straight up from here (crux) to the nasty-azz anchor, then continue left to another, then continue along to the ledge. Rope drag can be a pain.

Second pitch moves up the crack. Tricky if you're not a jammer. Once through this, stem out and up into the stacked blocks. Romp upwards to an anchor.

Third pitch continues along this ledge-system-weakness as it becomes more scrambly and broken. Step around the plant, past the chimney, and onto the slab. Climb this easily upwards, then pull gently over the chunks at the top to a ledge without much of a view.

The rappel from here requires some shenanigans traversing back to the right. Be sure to back it up with an autoblock. Second rappel is fairly straightforward, just stay right. Third rappel to the base of the direct start, then bushwack back to your packs.

Location

Far left side of the North-East Face

Protection

Bolts, maybe some slings

Photos

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