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Routes in North-East Face

Absent Friends S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Egg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Da Mogwai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deviant, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Greenwood S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Ending Story, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pumpy Brewster S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sha Bi Ab Bi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Much Ecstasy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wonderful World S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Paul Collis, Bob Keaty - 11/2007
Page Views: 281 total · 3/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 3, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Fun, thin climbing at the beginning leads through the crux to a left facing dihedral. Great moves all the way up the dihedral take you to a small overhang and up to the anchors.

This is a fantastic climb: great rock, moves, and variety -- and the view is pretty stellar as well. While in this area, the two routes to the left are also great -- Bad Egg and Duck -- both rated 5.11b.

Location

This route can be approached from either the Fried Egg (East) face or the routes on the North Face.

From the Fried Egg face: walk around the Egg up the trail close to the cliff that goes through the bushes -- don't go back down the the lower trail that circumnavigates the entire crag. You'll soon come to a 1 meter step in the trail you'll need to scramble up. The route climbs the obvious dihedral straight up from the landing above this step.

From the North: walk along the cliff, through the cave, and along the narrow ledge. You'll come to another cave that you can either climb though or down a couple steps to the left. Belay at obvious belay spot down these steps, above the final 1 meter drop to the trail that continues to the Fried Egg face. The route ascends the obvious dihedral above.

Protection

Bolts to a fixed chain anchor. Safe lead, easy to top rope.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10c
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10c
Very easy to get suckered right by the big ruse holds at 2nd/3rd bolt. I went for them but then found myself having to do a much more difficult step back left, fell, then realized the sequence didn't go that way at all. Otherwise really fun, straightforward laybacking up the crack. Sep 13, 2016