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Wonderful World
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 10
votes
Routes in North-East Face
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Absent Friends S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bad Egg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Da Mogwai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deviant, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Greenwood S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Never Ending Story, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pumpy Brewster S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sha Bi Ab Bi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Too Much Ecstasy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wonderful World S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft |
| FA: | Paul Collis, Bob Keaty - 11/2007 |
| Page Views: | 325 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 3, 2010 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
Fun, thin climbing at the beginning leads through the crux to a left facing dihedral. Great moves all the way up the dihedral take you to a small overhang and up to the anchors.
This is a fantastic climb: great rock, moves, and variety -- and the view is pretty stellar as well. While in this area, the two routes to the left are also great -- Bad Egg and Duck -- both rated 5.11b.
This is a fantastic climb: great rock, moves, and variety -- and the view is pretty stellar as well. While in this area, the two routes to the left are also great -- Bad Egg and Duck -- both rated 5.11b.
Location
This route can be approached from either the Fried Egg (East) face or the routes on the North Face.
From the Fried Egg face: walk around the Egg up the trail close to the cliff that goes through the bushes -- don't go back down the the lower trail that circumnavigates the entire crag. You'll soon come to a 1 meter step in the trail you'll need to scramble up. The route climbs the obvious dihedral straight up from the landing above this step.
From the North: walk along the cliff, through the cave, and along the narrow ledge. You'll come to another cave that you can either climb though or down a couple steps to the left. Belay at obvious belay spot down these steps, above the final 1 meter drop to the trail that continues to the Fried Egg face. The route ascends the obvious dihedral above.
From the Fried Egg face: walk around the Egg up the trail close to the cliff that goes through the bushes -- don't go back down the the lower trail that circumnavigates the entire crag. You'll soon come to a 1 meter step in the trail you'll need to scramble up. The route climbs the obvious dihedral straight up from the landing above this step.
From the North: walk along the cliff, through the cave, and along the narrow ledge. You'll come to another cave that you can either climb though or down a couple steps to the left. Belay at obvious belay spot down these steps, above the final 1 meter drop to the trail that continues to the Fried Egg face. The route ascends the obvious dihedral above.
Portland, OR