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Routes in North-East Face

Absent Friends S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Egg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Da Mogwai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deviant, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Greenwood S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Ending Story, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pumpy Brewster S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sha Bi Ab Bi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Much Ecstasy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wonderful World S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Marshall Balick, Josh Morris, Paul Collis, Bob Keaty - 2008
Page Views: 161 total, 2/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 8, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

One of a pair of stellar routes at the grade, its brother to the left being Bad Egg. Along with Wonderful World (5.10c), these three are some of the best routes on this crag -- though there are many good routes here!

Climb up the right side of the mouth of the cave to a tricky, thin bit of climbing to gain the face. Technical moves with no other definite crux take you to the top. Very clean and pure, this route is a blast.

Location

See the description for Wonderful World to get to this area. This is the first bolted line left of it.

Protection

Bolts to 2 bolt fixed chain anchor. Easy to top rope and a safe lead.

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