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Routes in West Gully
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5.9 Wall S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boiled in Oil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Guillotine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stretch Rack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 38.98958, -119.90839 |
| FA: | Chris Dornsife & Chazz Spaeth |
| Page Views: | 1,400 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Refuge Jared on Sep 12, 2016 |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Partial seasonal raptor closure
Details
This area is known for seasonal falcon nesting.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
Description
In the West Gully, opposite the Torture Chamber and all its routes with rad names, it should be apparent that 5.9 Wall is an ideal warm up route before really bringing the pain. A fun route, 5.9 Wall has some cool features and good moves on it. The route earns its rating from a 5.9 crux after the first bolt. Rappel down.
This is one of the only toprope routes at Castle Rock. Before coming into the West Gully, go between trees and scramble onto the top of the buttress above 5.9 Wall. It may be a bit difficult to find from the top and/or uncomfortable to reach. Consider leaving a marker at the base of the climb or having your partner help you locate the anchors from below.
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