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Routes in West Gully

5.9 Wall S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boiled in Oil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Guillotine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stretch Rack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: Chris Dornsife & Chazz Spaeth
Page Views: 196 total · 9/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Sep 12, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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In the West Gully, opposite the Torture Chamber and all its routes with rad names, it should be apparent that 5.9 Wall is an ideal warm up route before really bringing the pain. A fun route, 5.9 Wall has some cool features and good moves on it. The route earns its rating from a 5.9 crux after the first bolt. Rappel down.

This is one of the only toprope routes at Castle Rock. Before coming into the West Gully, go between trees and scramble onto the top of the buttress above 5.9 Wall. It may be a bit difficult to find from the top and/or uncomfortable to reach. Consider leaving a marker at the base of the climb or having your partner help you locate the anchors from below.


The West Gully must be approached hiking in from above. Looking down the gully, 5.9 Wall is the route on the Left wall.


5 bolts straight up to hangers with quick links. Rappel down.


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