Elevation: 7,743 ft
GPS: 38.995, -119.897 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 119,343 total · 1,006/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Oct 9, 2010 with improvements by Rich Hamilton
Admins: Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Partial seasonal raptor closure Details

Description

This is the tri-summited dome seen to the East of Stateline on Kingsbury Grade. It has undergone major development quite recently (2015) and there are now about 30 climbs in this area. All routes are sport, and generously bolted with modern hardware. Theres a great variety of ratings from super beginner to expert, a few multipitch routes, and some incredible views of the Lake--among the best in South Shore.

About half of the climbs here are moderate routes (5.5-9) set in 2015. However, in the early 90s some more challenging sport routes (5.9-11d) were set up on the vertical walls in the gullies. Mussy hooks are at the top of all moderate routes. Open cold shuts are found over the burlier, preexisting sport routes.

Very featured and colorful rock--dense, volcanic and mostly quite good, very similar geologically to Luther Rock or Luther Spires. Moderate erosion has carved out deep, solid jugs, making for vertical but quite easy "climbing gym" routes particularly on the Village Wall. Very fun!

The moderate routes are great for first time leads and first time climbs. There are some bolted 2 pitch routes that are also good for introducing multipitch protocol to the learning climber.

There are routes such as Rapunzels Hair 5.7 (feels more like a "modern 5.9"), 5.9 Wall, and Space Pants 5.8 that are nice for leaders who arent first timers but arent looking for an intense challenge like Excalibur 5.11b or the routes in the gullies. Routes in the 5.8-10 range are a little sparse here, the majority of the climbing here falling into one of two projects that focused on either amazing moderate scenic (Todd Offenbacher, 2015) or classic vertical sporty (Chris Dornsife & Chazz Spaeth, early 90s).

You can climb everything here with a 60 meter rope and 15 draws. The only easy toprope setups are found at 5.9 Wall and Space Pants 5.8. Besides that, toproping may be possible for the other 5.10-11 routes in the gullies but requires sketchy scrambling/solo and is not recommended.

There is shade between buttresses or by trees at the base. East facing routes within gullies have shade in the afternoon. It is reliably breezy or windy at the West Gully (we sometimes refer to it as the Wind Tunnel).

Mostly dog friendly terrain. However, the approach to the West Gully, Court Jester 5.8, and routes on Armory Wall Left/North of Space Pants 5.8 require minor scrambling and can be very difficult with dogs. Also "The Platform" at Armory Wall may risk a possible fall if your dog wanders near the edge.

Sounds like an awesome place right?! It totally is, and its developers intended for it to be shared. Please be respectful of other climbers and the area in general by keeping it clean and "family friendly." Climb on!

Classic routes

- 00-06 5.5 - Least intimidating spot for first ever climbs or leads
- Court Jester 5.8 - Fun, long, juggy climb with a 5.8/9 crux roof
- Village People 5.6 - Great for first ever *multipitch
- The Pike 5.9 - *Multipitch. Very easy 1st pitch; fun vertical crux at the 2nd pitch. Top out for a full panoramic view!
- In Depends Pants Day 5.6 - *Multipitch. Vertical juggy climb with various terrain and killer view!
- Warhammer 5.8 - Giant low angle dihedral with an exciting variety of jugs, blocks, and a slabby finishing crux
- Excalibur 5.11b/c - Classic pumpy sport climb on an impressive slightly overhanging wall
- Untitled 5.10b (with 11+ var.) - Burly start to rad features and hidden jugs on slightly overhanging, colorful rock

Nearby places to eat:

- Super Tacos & Taqueria Jiminez - In the Stateline area
- Ca Burger Co. - Pricey, but beefy! Great beer selection, bottomless "sidewinder" fries, and a reasonable happy hour
- Basecamp Hotel - Has a beer garden with a full menu, cornhole, firepits, smores, and live music every night.
- The Coachman Hotel - Great place to hang out. Lacks hearty food but is walking distance from tacos. Firepits, smores, solid espresso bar (serving Stumptown Coffee), beer, and a few very simple food options available
- Lakeside Inn (and other casinos) - Inexpensive solid breakfast 11pm-11am

Getting There

DIRECTIONS / PARKING / APPROACH:

From Stateline, take Kingsbury Grade (SR-207)
Left before the summit at N Benjamin Dr (toward Brautovich Park)
Continue onto Andria Dr
Park at dirt parking area on Left immediately where nice pavement ends
Trailhead is here at the green gate
Do not start at the Tahoe Rim Trailhead

GPS coordinates for parking/trailhead at green gate:
38.994803, -119.896669

Youll find the green gate after the last house on the street, as soon as the road (Andria Dr) transitions from pavement to cracked pavement. The approach is about 20 minutes--1.01 miles to Village Wall. Dont start hiking at the Tahoe Rim Trail (just North of the green gate) unless you want to hike quite a bit longer. The approach is well maintained trail, even bikeable, until you pass the Castle Gates boulders and descend loose sandy gullies to the base of the rock. Hiking shoes recommended.

Once on the trail, follow signs to Castle Rock. Youll join the Tahoe Rim Trail at the first trail marker, then take a hard Left toward CR at the next one. At this point youll gain some altitude before coming to a breezy vista and the "Castle Gates" boulders on either side of the bending trail.

To get to the main climbing area (South facing routes and Armory Wall), look for a climber trail and cairns on your Left immediately after the Castle Gates (about 20 feet). This will take you down to the main climbing area approach trail at the base of Castle Rock; follow the cairns down through the East Gully.

If you want to check out the Central or West Gully, continue straight ahead toward Castle Rocks peak. The Central Gully can be found by heading downhill on the first apparent trail after the Castle Gates where youll see a gray weathered stump. The West Gully is found shortly afterwards, does not have an apparent trail, and can only be accessed hiking in from above, down some boulders to loose terrain. You can see bolts on the West Gully walls as you get closer. 5.9 Wall is on the Left and Torture Chamber is to the Right.

To find Rapunzels Hair 5.7 (arguably a 5.9) at North Castle, go North at a trail marker on a rock just after the Castle Gates. The trail wanders unnecessarily between two large boulders. Trails wander and disintegrate here; hike a trail in the general direction of the North West end of Castle Rock until you come around the backside of CR to a steep rocky gully that can be hiked to the summit. Rapunzels Hair 5.7 can be found on the Left side of this gully.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 14
00-06
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 25
Village Idiot
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 27
Village People
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Armed Teacher
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Disco Cowboy
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
See Saw
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
War Hammer
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 33
Pillage the Village
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Space Pants
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Court Jester
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Monkey Bar
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
The Pike
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Untitled
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 4
The Holy Flail
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 20
Excalibur
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
00-06 School Rock
 14
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Village Idiot Village Wall
 25
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Village People Village Wall
 27
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 2 pitches
Armed Teacher School Rock
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Disco Cowboy Village Wall
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
See Saw E Gully, Playground R…
 20
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
War Hammer Armory Wall
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Pillage the Village Village Wall
 33
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Space Pants Armory Wall
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Court Jester Armory Wall
 13
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Monkey Bar E Gully, Playground R…
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Pike Armory Wall
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Untitled E Gully, Playground R…
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Holy Flail Central Gully
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Sport
Excalibur E Gully, Playground R…
 20
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock »

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