Castle Rock Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,743 ft | 2,360 m |
GPS: |
38.9948, -119.89666 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 214,520 total · 1,229/month | |
Shared By: | Refuge Jared on Oct 9, 2010 · Updates | |
Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
Description
This is the tri-summited dome seen to the East of Stateline on Kingsbury Grade. It has undergone major development quite recently (2015) and there are now about 30 climbs in this area. All routes are sport, and generously bolted with modern hardware. Theres a great variety of ratings from super beginner to expert, a few multipitch routes, and some incredible views of the Lake--among the best in South Shore.
About half of the climbs here are moderate routes (5.5-9) set in 2015. However, in the early 90s some more challenging sport routes (5.9-11d) were set up on the vertical walls in the gullies. Mussy hooks are at the top of all moderate routes. Open cold shuts are found over the burlier, preexisting sport routes.
Very featured and colorful rock--dense, volcanic and mostly quite good, very similar geologically to Luther Rock or Luther Spires. Moderate erosion has carved out deep, solid jugs, making for vertical but quite easy "climbing gym" routes particularly on the Village Wall. Very fun!
The moderate routes are great for first time leads and first time climbs. There are some bolted 2 pitch routes that are also good for introducing multipitch protocol to the learning climber.
There are routes such as Rapunzels Hair 5.7 (feels more like a "modern 5.9"), 5.9 Wall, and Space Pants 5.8 that are nice for leaders who arent first timers but arent looking for an intense challenge like Excalibur 5.11b/c or the routes in the gullies. Routes in the 5.8-10 range are a little sparse here, the majority of the climbing here falling into one of two projects that focused on either amazing moderate scenic (Todd Offenbacher, 2015) or classic vertical sporty (Chris Dornsife & Chazz Spaeth, early 90s).
You can climb everything here with a 60 meter rope and 15 draws. The only easy toprope setups are found at 5.9 Wall and Space Pants 5.8. Besides that, toproping may be possible for the other 5.10-11 routes in the gullies but requires sketchy scrambling/solo and is not recommended.
There is shade between buttresses or by trees at the base. East facing routes within gullies have shade in the afternoon. It is reliably breezy or windy at the West Gully (we sometimes refer to it as the Wind Tunnel).
Mostly dog friendly terrain. However, the approach to the West Gully, Court Jester 5.8, and routes on Armory Wall Left/North of Space Pants 5.8 require minor scrambling and can be difficult with dogs. Also "The Platform" at Armory Wall may risk a possible fall if your dog wanders near the edge.
Sounds like an awesome place right?! It totally is, and its developers intended for it to be shared. Please be respectful of other climbers and the area in general by keeping it clean and "family friendly." Climb on!
Classic routes
- 00-06 5.5 - Least intimidating spot for first ever climbs or leads
- Court Jester 5.8 - Fun, long, juggy climb with a 5.8/9 crux roof
- Village People 5.6 - Great for first ever *multipitch
- The Pike 5.9 - *Multipitch. Very easy 1st pitch; fun vertical crux at the 2nd pitch. Top out for a full panoramic view!
- In Depends Pants Day 5.6 - *Multipitch. Vertical juggy climb with various terrain and killer view!
- Warhammer 5.8 - Giant low angle dihedral with an exciting variety of jugs, blocks, and a slabby finishing crux
- Excalibur 5.11b/c - Classic pumpy sport climb on an impressive slightly overhanging wall
- Untitled 5.10b (with 11+ var.) - Burly start to rad features and hidden jugs on slightly overhanging, colorful rock
Nearby places to eat:
- Super Tacos & Taqueria Jiminez - Authentic tacos, big burritos, horchata (Super also has outdoor seating)
- Ca Burger Co. - Pricey, but beefy! Great beer selection, bottomless "sidewinder" fries, and a reasonable happy hour
- South of North Brewery - Has a beer garden with a full menu, cornhole, firepits, smores, and live music every night.
- The Coachman Hotel - Lacks hearty food but is walking distance from tacos. Firepits, smores, solid espresso bar, beer, and a few very simple food options available
Getting There
DIRECTIONS / PARKING / APPROACH:
From Stateline, take Kingsbury Grade (SR-207)
Left before the summit at N Benjamin Dr (toward Kingsbury North Trailhead)
Continue onto Andria Dr
Continue into parking area
Trailhead is on your Left immediately as parking lot begins
Do not start at the Tahoe Rim Trailhead
GPS coordinates for parking/trailhead:
38.994803, -119.896669
Youll find the trailhead after the last house on the street, as soon as the road (Andria Dr) enters a large parking lot. The approach is about 20 minutes--1.01 miles to Village Wall. Do not start hiking at the Tahoe Rim Trailhead (just North of the Castle Rock trailhead), otherwise you will be hiking quite a bit longer. The approach is impressively well maintained trail, even bikeable. A very special thanks to the Tahoe Rim Trail Association, who worked in alliance with the Tahoe Climbing Coalition to reroute and upgrade *all the trails here for hikers and climbers alike (June 2022).
From the beginning of the trail, follow signs to Castle Rock. Youll join the Tahoe Rim Trail at the first trail marker, then take a hard Left toward CR at the next trail marker. At this point youll gain some altitude before coming to a fork in the trail. Youll see a low profile trail marker with a climber icon on it. Going Left here will bring you to the Main / Lower Trail. Take a Right if you want to access the Upper Trail or hike to the Vista (which is great, but not as great as the anchors on Armory Wall, jus sayin).
Here are the approach beta for the different areas within Castle Rock. See Area Map for reference.
To get to the main climbing area (South facing routes and Armory Wall) and the bottom of Central Gully, take a Left at the fork to access the Main / Lower Trail. Here, you'll be able to access all the moderate routes and a small handful of 10b-11b.
If you want to check out the top of the Central Gully or the West Gully, take a right at the fork and get on the Upper Trail. Youll arrive at a breezy vista where youll see the "Castle Gates" boulders on either side of the trail. About 100' beyond the Castle Gates, take a Left and head downhill on the first apparent trail to access the top of the Central Gully. The West Gully is accessed by taking a Left on a trail just a stones throw beyond the Central Gully and can only be accessed by hiking in from above. You can see bolts on the West Gully walls as you get closer. 5.9 Wall is on the Left and Torture Chamber (10b-11b) is to the Right.
The Central Gully connects the Upper and Lower Trails, so if you want to spend some time enjoying the moderate routes as well as some of the harder sport options, this is a nice (although a little steep) way to access both without backtracking to the fork again.
To find Rapunzels Hair 5.7 (arguably a 5.9) at North Castle, go North at a trail that peels off to the Right after the Castle Gates. The trail makes its way between two large boulders and around the backside of The Castle to a steep rocky gully that can be hiked to the summit. Rapunzels Hair 5.7 can be found on the Left side of this gully. There is another short trail that peels off to the Left at the backside of The Castle; this leads up to a decent Vista Point that doesnt require any difficult hiking or scrambling.
Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock
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