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Routes in West Gully

5.9 Wall S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boiled in Oil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Guillotine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stretch Rack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Chris Dornsife & Chazz Spaeth
Page Views: 202 total · 10/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Sep 12, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Description [Edit]

CAUTION: The tree next to this wall is a hazard while lowering AND belaying. Lower carefully to avoid the sharp nubs of the trees removed limbs--they will leave bruises. And stand clear of the tree when belaying so that you arent pulled up through the sharp edges of the removed limbs during a lead fall.

A super fun climb. A bit pumpy with exciting sections, great rests, and jugs hidden throughout. There maaaay even be a knee bar (or two) in there somewhere! You can pick out this route from the other two at Torture Chamber just from its cool deep juggy structures, worn out of the rock from erosion. That said, a fall here could easily cost you an injury with all sorts of great spots to sprang an ankle. However, the stances are great once you push through a set of moves and the protection is very well placed.

Go right after the 4th bolt; The 5th bolt is shared with the middle route (Boiled in Oil 5.11b). Lower off.

WATCH OUT: Leave a few directional draws in place if you plan to toprope this route. If you swing off of this route you can easily be injured by spinning and slamming into corners on other parts of the rock wall.

Location [Edit]

All the routes at Torture Chamber share a set of open cold shuts. Stretch Rack begins Left of the anchors behind a funny looking tree.

Protection [Edit]

5 bolts to open cold shuts at anchor. The 5th bolt is shared with the middle route (Boiled in Oil 5.11b).

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