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Routes in West Gully
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5.9 Wall S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boiled in Oil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Guillotine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stretch Rack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 38.98958, -119.90839 |
| FA: | Chris Dornsife & Chazz Spaeth |
| Page Views: | 1,527 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Refuge Jared on Sep 12, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Partial seasonal raptor closure
Details
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
Description
CAUTION: The tree next to this wall is a hazard while lowering AND belaying. Lower carefully to avoid the sharp nubs of the trees removed limbs--they will leave bruises. And stand clear of the tree when belaying so that you arent pulled up through the sharp edges of the removed limbs during a lead fall.
A super fun climb. A bit pumpy with exciting sections, great rests, and jugs hidden throughout. There maaaay even be a knee bar (or two) in there somewhere! You can pick out this route from the other two at Torture Chamber just from its cool deep juggy structures, worn out of the rock from erosion. That said, a fall here could easily cost you an injury with all sorts of great spots to sprang an ankle. However, the stances are great once you push through a set of moves and the protection is very well placed.
Go right after the 4th bolt; The 5th bolt is shared with the middle route (Boiled in Oil 5.11b). Lower off.
WATCH OUT: Leave a few directional draws in place if you plan to toprope this route. If you swing off of this route you can easily be injured by spinning and slamming into corners on other parts of the rock wall.
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