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Routes in West Gully

5.9 Wall S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boiled in Oil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Guillotine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stretch Rack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 7,904 ft
GPS: 38.99, -119.908 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 795 total, 52/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen

Description

The West Gully has steep walls on either side. The routes here were set in the early 90s and are sportier than the moderate stuff at the base of Castle. It is reliably breezy or windy here, either providing a welcome cool off or numbing your fingers depending on time of year (we sometimes refer to it as the Wind Tunnel). Shade alternates from one wall to the other depending on time of day.

Facing down the gully, the Left side has one route called 5.9 Wall which is... well, a 5.9. A good warm up on colorful featured rock. It is topropable if you go between some trees and scramble up the buttress although the anchors may be a bit difficult to find from the top and/or uncomfortable to reach.

On the right side of the gully next to a tree is the Torture Chamber, with a 5.10b and two 11s sharing a pair of open cold shuts. A great challenge. You can toprope the 11s after leading the 10 if so desired.

CAUTION: The tree next to Torture Chamber is a hazard while lowering AND belaying. Lower carefully to avoid the sharp nubs of the trees removed limbs--they will leave bruises. And stand clear of the tree when belaying so that you arent pulled up through the sharp edges of the removed limbs during a lead fall.

Getting There

From the Castle Gates, continue straight ahead toward Castle Rock's peak which is visible between trees. Continue past the Central Gully, which is the first apparent trail going downhill after the Castle Gates. The West Gully is found shortly afterwards, does not have an apparent trail, and can only be accessed hiking in from above, down some boulders to loose terrain. You can see bolts on the West Gully walls as you get closer. 5.9 Wall is on the left and Torture Chamber is to the right.

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Gully

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.9 Wall
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stretch Rack
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.9 Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Stretch Rack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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