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Routes in Pacific Ocean Cliff

Baby Grey Whale TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
California Coast A2 PG13
California Coastline (Free) TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dirty Thoughts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dizzy Dial S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Native Rights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superstitious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whale Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 150 total, 9/month
Shared By: Nick Black on Aug 21, 2016
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Steep, left leaning, tips and fingercrack. The name came from the amount of dirt that filled this awesome route, which took hours of scrubbing to clean! Be 11+ for the average sized fingers, for my slender fingers it a bit rattly and .12-. Starts with super technical, funky laybacking up a sloping ramp to reach the base of the crack, followed by long lockoffs between solid locks with bad feet. one of the few routes on the coast with full on crack climbing!

Setup Beta: To lead this route you can either build an anchor about 45ft up where the crack becomes filled with plants(rap off a tree from the top to clean, or to set a TR) or head right over a face climbing bulge(10+ish) protected by micro gear, and scramble up dirty ledges to the top, R/X rated.

Location

Around the arete from dizzy dial.

Protection

BD .2-1, doubles in .3-.5. Some of the best, most solid pro at Patrick's Point, but fiddly to place. for the anchor you'll need 2 #1's, a .75, and a .5, plus 2 ropes and 2 cordelletes,if rapping in to TR.

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