Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Pacific Ocean Cliff
|Baby Grey Whale TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|California Coast A2 PG13|
|California Coastline (Free) TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Dirty Thoughts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Dizzy Dial S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Native Rights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Superstitious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Whale Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 45 ft|
|Page Views:||150 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Black on Aug 21, 2016|
|Admins:||Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionSteep, left leaning, tips and fingercrack. The name came from the amount of dirt that filled this awesome route, which took hours of scrubbing to clean! Be 11+ for the average sized fingers, for my slender fingers it a bit rattly and .12-. Starts with super technical, funky laybacking up a sloping ramp to reach the base of the crack, followed by long lockoffs between solid locks with bad feet. one of the few routes on the coast with full on crack climbing!
Setup Beta: To lead this route you can either build an anchor about 45ft up where the crack becomes filled with plants(rap off a tree from the top to clean, or to set a TR) or head right over a face climbing bulge(10+ish) protected by micro gear, and scramble up dirty ledges to the top, R/X rated.