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Routes in Pacific Ocean Cliff

5.10b Toprope TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
California Coast A2 PG13
California Coastline (Free) TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dirty Thoughts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dizzy Dial S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Native Rights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superstitious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whale Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Aid, 100 ft
FA: Bruce Price and Frank Jager in 1968
Page Views: 91 total, 2/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Dec 22, 2012
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A nice line with interesting placements down low up to a sketch traverse to a sweet left-slanting crack to the rim.

Location

The obvious line with the crack high on the cliff, to the right of the other routes, facing west.

Protection

LA's and KB's, hooks...for the traverse right to the left-slanting crack, bring little bolts to tap into existing holes...or drill out and put in some permanent ones.
Once at the crack, KB's and stoppers to the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Sounds like a blast! I recall stacking some pins early on and being gripped until the crack provided more security. No wonder it hasn't seen many ascents. May 4, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  C4 X
Evan Wisheropp  
  C4 X
Well, I went back and aided this thing finally. I went hammerless and sans pitons to try it clean, Wow, I'm glad I did it on solo-TR! LOTS of hook moves with very no pro until you reach the crack way up there.

I left the TR super slacked for the excitement, and I took four daisy falls in three spots when hooks sheared sections off little chunks of rock. Wild! Towards the end of the traverse, a seemingly perfect hook blew when the a chunk of rock gave way, then the crappy looking hook I had already stepped off of caught my daisy fall 4 feet later. Six feet later, another hook sheered rock as I was in the middle of placing a flared ball-nut, and the ball-nut held.

Near the old chopped fixed pin at the top, I was standing on an inverted wide cam hook as the rock crumbled around it and it started to pull bit by bit. I quickly hand placed a sideways Tomahawk next to it and before I could test it or adjust the daisy chain, the rock finished crumbling and the hook blew. Another three foot daisy fall, but the tomahawk caught it!

Thin knifeblades and some rurps would be necessary if you wanted to lead it, I personally had my fill, and would be glad to call that enough!

A3+ / C4+ May 4, 2015
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Way Kool! Post some fotografs when you do! Apr 22, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  C4 X
Evan Wisheropp  
  C4 X
I played around on solo top rope on this today. I ended up freeing the route up to just after the traverse and cut off. The upper section of the crack looks insanely hard to free. I'll be going back with some aid gear to play around on it when I get a chance. Mar 6, 2015
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
I'd love to hear about someone else leading this and what they thought . . . Jul 4, 2014