Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pacific Ocean Cliff

Baby Grey Whale TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
California Coast A2 PG13
California Coastline (Free) TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dirty Thoughts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dizzy Dial S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Native Rights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superstitious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whale Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: Richard Ludwig, Tim Wilhelmi, and Sharon Urquhart
Page Views: 235 total · 7/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Apr 13, 2015
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Around the corner from Superstitious is a short toprope that follows a few bulges. The anchors bolts are oddly placed as if the route was originally intended to have lead bolts. Rappel from the tree above to get down to the bolts.

Update: This is actually an 11a, named by the first ascentionists Baby Grey Whale.

Location

25' right of Superstitious

Protection

Tree anchor to rap down to bolts below the lip

Photos

It's funny, the bolts are in great condition, just those quicklinks!!

There's another route that they bolted on a wall 100' NW of PO wall. I'm curious if they ever attached a name to it or not. The arete is decently fun, but the crack is beyond crumbly. I think it must have been an abandoned project to lead the crack.



Apr 15, 2015
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Ahh, the sea...

F.A. : That would be Richard Ludwig, Tim Wilhelmi, and Sharon Urquhart, I'm pretty sure. Bolt it! Apr 15, 2015
This would be a sweet little route if it was bolted, but fun top rope nonetheless. I climbed it on self belay and just anchored from the tree, skipping the bolts. I also experimented with traversing over to the bolts from the top of the chimney, that is somewhat an option if you traverse over on lead with a nest of small gear.

I also noticed these are the same bolts, hangers, and rusted quick links as on the wall 100' NE of Dizzy Dial. Does anyone know who did these FAs? Apr 13, 2015