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Routes in Pacific Ocean Cliff

Baby Grey Whale TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
California Coast A2 PG13
California Coastline (Free) TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dirty Thoughts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dizzy Dial S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Native Rights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superstitious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whale Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Doug Lafarge, Tim Wilhelmi and Richard Ludwig, 1980's
Page Views: 1,271 total, 15/month
Shared By: Zacharias Gustav on Jan 20, 2011
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Balancy slab on bomber rock with nice edges. Finishes halfway up the wall. Whale Nation Continuation (5.12c TR) can be set up at the top of the cliff.

Location

To the right of Dizzy Dial.

Protection

6-8 bolts youl be able to count them from the ground

Photos

Nick Black
Arcata, CA
  5.10d
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
  5.10d
Fun route, using the purple tcu at the top is a good idea. Nov 28, 2015
Has anyone here done the Continuation recently? There appear to be a lot of freshly broken holds that seem to have flaked off. The two cruxes felt a lot harder and than expected. Another route to work up to! Mar 6, 2015
Great route! I second the stick clip, otherwise traverse in from the boulder. The slab and overhanging jugs were really fun. I used a TCU for the mantle. Mar 3, 2015
You can also place a bomber purple TCU right before you mantle to the anchors, to help with runout. Jul 28, 2014
Is there a guidebook for this area? Jun 30, 2014
Lurker
Verdi, NV
  5.10c
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
  5.10c
7 bolts for the direct start, 8 bolts if you traverse in from the right off the boulder. Excellent route with a spicy mantel move to gain the anchors. Might want to stick clip 1st bolt. Apr 22, 2013