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Dragon's Spine
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
Routes in 3. Dragon
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Dragon's Breath T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dragon's Butt TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Dragon's Fins T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dragon's Rib TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dragon's Spine TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Dragon's Tail T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dragon's Throat TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flightless TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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other Butt TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Smelling the Smoke TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Type: | TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 41.14567, -74.16367 |
| FA: | Jon Crefeld + friends |
| Page Views: | 808 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jul 25, 2016 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Rather interesting thoughtful footwork through the crux section. Unfortunately the rest of the route does not sustain that level of difficulty.
Originally done as a bouldering problem.
Up the rounded ridge / arete / rib to near its top. The tighter you stay on its crest, the more interesting the climbing. Higher up climb a bit on the right side of the rock at the top of the arete. Join route Dragon Butt to finish.
Variation finish: When reach top of arete / rib, traverse right on grass - dirt - rocks for about fifteen feet. Then up right side of obvious wide crack/gully in the Dragon's head (see on this Routes photo) -- to join the route Dragon's Breath over two small roofs to the top.
warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Bottom of rib / arete which forms the left (west) boundary of the Dragon wall slab. Just Right of a large tall healthy tree (the Giving Tree).
--> See on this routes Photo
--> or on this routes Photo
Protection
To set up Top-Rope, see Description of Dragon area.
Climbers could take a dangerous side-swing if they fall, even though they are on top-rope. There is no way to place Trad protection to prevent this.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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