| Type: | TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 41.14567, -74.16367 |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 739 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 28, 2016 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
With the quality of foot- and hand-holds in these sections, flight might seem like the only option.
Start on the right end of the platform on top of the obvious nose in the bottom center of the Dragon slab. Up the (featureless?) rock to a right-trending rounded ramp.
Next traverse left ten feet (a bit downward?) across the ramp to the top of an easier way (the route Smelling the Smoke), which is two or three feet right of a vertical line of flakes (for the route Dragon's Fins). Up the face, using a thin left side-pull at first -- but not using any of the left-facing flakes (nor the left-facing mini-flakes which are a few inches right of the flakes) above that one.
Declare victory when reach the gentler ledge, then finish on some other route.
. Variation: Not quite so hard if skip the initial lower right section.
warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Triangle of attached rock between the very large tree and the obvious low nose -- which is about a foot thick, and whose left side is a vertical left-facing corner/flake, and whose right side is a left-slanting rounded thing with a horn near its top.
--> See on this routes Photo
Protection
To set up Top-Rope, see Description of Dragon area.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.




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