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Routes in Neue Heimat

? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cafe Caspary S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clipsticker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fair Value S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Franken Plaisir S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kaum Zeit zum F├╝rchten S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kleines F├╝rchterli S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neue Heimat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Querulant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Safety First S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: V. Roth 2001
Page Views: 27 total · 1/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jul 3, 2016
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description [Edit]

Maybe not exactly "classic", but a damn good 8- route for the Frankenjura.
The climbing follows jugs through the first three bolts, then it gets serious. Instead of following pockets, you're forced to rely on the features of the rock and correct body position to make it through the crux to the anchor.

Location [Edit]

Just left of the little "cave".

Protection [Edit]

5 bolts + anchor

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