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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 3. Higher Cathedral S…
Spire it up (first 2 pitches)
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in 3. Higher Cathedral Spire
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East Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ PG13 |
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Regular Route (Higher Cathedral Spire) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southeast Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spire it up (first 2 pitches) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Steck Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Robert Newsome & Brian (Coiler) Kay, June 2000; FFA: Ben Ditto |
| Page Views: | 1,913 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | ben ditto on Jul 2, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Spire it up is an old 5.9 A4 aid route. I have begun free-ing the route and the first 2 pitches are ready to go! You can enjoy the first pitch and second pitch climbing and then easily rappel back to the base.
Pitch 1: over hanging tight hands in the dihedral. Pass the original hanging belay (fixed nuts) and proceed up and eventually left to a nice ledge and bolted rap anchor. A unique pitch due to its over-hanging nature. great stemming up high.
Pitch 2: step back right into the dihedral and climb the arc-ing line up and to the right until the crack disappears. Boulder past 2 bolts to get to the anchor. This is a really great pitch.
Rappel from first pitch with 1 70m rope. Rappel directly down from second pitch with 2 60 m ropes.
Location
Route is located on the North face of Higher Spire. Walk up the normal trail. When pass the toe of the buttress, continue uphill toward the normal route, but hug the wall and find a small ledge that leads to a great terrace at the base of the very obvious first pitch dihedral. At this point the base of the wall is covered in trees.
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