Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Higher Cathedral Spire

East Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ PG13
Regular Route (Higher Cathedral Spire) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spire it up (first 2 pitches) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: old aid route, new free route
Page Views: 353 total · 18/month
Shared By: ben ditto on Jul 2, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Spire it up is an old A4 aid route. I have begun free-ing the route and the first 2 pitches are ready to go! You can enjoy the first pitch and second pitch climbing and then easily rappel back to the base.

Pitch 1: over hanging tight hands in the dihedral. Pass the original hanging belay (fixed nuts) and proceed up and eventually left to a nice ledge and bolted rap anchor. A unique pitch due to its over-hanging nature. great stemming up high.

Pitch 2: step back right into the dihedral and climb the arc-ing line up and to the right until the crack disappears. Boulder past 2 bolts to get to the anchor. This is a really great pitch.


Rappel from first pitch with 1 70m rope. Rappel directly down from second pitch with 2 60 m ropes.

Location

Route is located on the North face of Higher Spire. Walk up the normal trail. When pass the toe of the buttress, continue uphill toward the normal route, but hug the wall and find a small ledge that leads to a great terrace at the base of the very obvious first pitch dihedral. At this point the base of the wall is covered in trees.

Protection

pitch 1: normal gear: 2 each .3 camalot - 2 camalot. 3 each : .5 & .75 camalot. 1 each: 3 camalot.

Pitch 2: 2 each: red c3, .3 camalot, .4 , .75 camalot. bring some small offset cams, I use a grey/purple metolious and it is bomber! smallish offset nuts.

Photos

- No Photos -
Spire it Up 5.9 A4 gradeV, FA by Robert Newsome & Brian (Coiler) Kay, June 2000.

Nice job freeing the start Ben.

- Eric Gabel Jul 6, 2016

More About Spire it up (first 2 pitches)

Printer-Friendly Guide