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> Higher Cathedral Spire
Northwest Face
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A3+ PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Higher Cathedral Spire
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East Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ PG13 |
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Regular Route (Higher Cathedral Spire) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southeast Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spire it up (first 2 pitches) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1200 ft, 11 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Tom Frost, Royal Robbins 1961 |
| Page Views: | 1,200 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Foster on Jan 2, 2013 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Aid Crux is on pitch 7 and can be somewhat intimidating. This route goes directly up the Northwest face and gets very little sun so bring a jacket, it can get a little chilly on this one. The middle pitches of the climb are the hardest and are composed of moderate to hard aid sections (beaks are your friend on this one). Watch out for loose rock as this route does not get done that often. It has had only 2 ascents in the last three years and one of them was me and Erik Sloan, we cleaned the entire route the best we could and replaced all of the bad bolts. It is an adventurous Yosemite big wall.
Erik Sloan has a free topo on his website of the climb. Check out his site, he has spent many hours making topos for Yosemite Big Walls and provides them for free. Thanks Erik
yosemitebigwall.com
Erik Sloan has a free topo on his website of the climb. Check out his site, he has spent many hours making topos for Yosemite Big Walls and provides them for free. Thanks Erik
yosemitebigwall.com
Protection
Anchors and bolts replaced in May 2010.
10 beaks-2 each #1, 4 each #2 and #3
3 LA's-1 each #2-4
6 angles-3 each 1/2", 5/8"
3 sawed angles-1 of 5/8", 2 each 3/4"
3 heads, 1 each of #2-4
1 set of nuts
1 set of brassies
Cams
3-4 each of .3"-1.25"
2-3 each of 1.5"-3.5"
2-5"
1-8"(optional for chimney)
10 beaks-2 each #1, 4 each #2 and #3
3 LA's-1 each #2-4
6 angles-3 each 1/2", 5/8"
3 sawed angles-1 of 5/8", 2 each 3/4"
3 heads, 1 each of #2-4
1 set of nuts
1 set of brassies
Cams
3-4 each of .3"-1.25"
2-3 each of 1.5"-3.5"
2-5"
1-8"(optional for chimney)
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Yosemite
Also there's no way this is a Grade VI. I did it solo in 19 hours car-to-car and this was my first A3 route and I was climbing ridiculously slow on the two crux pitches. It took me slightly longer to solo Ten Days After which is considered a Grade V.
Thanks for replacing the hardware on this route, but I was also wondering if you guys added any bolts in the process? Two or three bolts at every belay seems out of character for a Royal Robbins route, and also the location of the anchors seems "modern" in the sense that they're set up to facilitate clean hauling, while back in the days of webbing harnesses they tended to drill their belays at better stances. Jun 9, 2016
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ