Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Keith Edwards, Fred Cady (Jun, '70) -- FFA: Keith Reynolds, Alvino Pon (late '80s)
Page Views: 417 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 7, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A worthwhile line between the Regular Route and the East Corner. Follows a huge left-facing flake and corner which you will probably notice on the final bit of the approach. The guidebook calls the route 5.10d, but I thought it was significantly easier - maybe only 10a or so. The first pitch is really nice, and the climb has good position and exposure, but also some rotten rock in one section on the second pitch.

From the Regular Route scramble uphill to the highest point along the base of the south face. Then descend a short ways to reach the bottom of a prominent fist crack. This is the start of the route.

P1 - Jam and lieback up the 3-4" crack, passing through a roof. Belay at slings around a block, which can be backed-up by cams to the right.

P2 - Climb up the corner with a bit of offwidthing, then undercling under the roof into some chossy rock. At the left end of the roof either go straight up or climb further left then up and back right. (The guidebook shows a belay out left, but the rock is very poor quality). Place a directional in a horizontal crack to keep the rope from getting stuck at the edge of the roof, then climb up through a tricky bulge and either belay on a manzanita covered ledge, or from a solid 3" crack just below it.

P3&4 - From the ledge there are a few finishing options (the Steck Route and East Corner also all converge on this ledge). The best finish is up an obvious finger crack near the right end of the ledge (hard 5.9 to start). Then wander up ledges to the left and finish up a short thin crack. Belay on a 3rd class ramp just below the summit. You can do this in one pitch.

Rap the Regular Route to descend (one 70m rope, or a 60m works but requires a short easy downclimb after the first rappel)

Protection

Pro to 4.5" with extra 3-4" gear.

Photos

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