Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Vesper Peak

Fish & Whistle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ragged Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
True Grit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 590 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Darin Berdinka 2015
Page Views: 2,751 total, 154/month
Shared By: Nick Drake on Jun 27, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A fun moderate route in a great setting that will leave you wishing it were longer. With the highlight definitely the cracks on P4 with a step across.

While it has convenient bolted belays at nice stances don't let this fool you. It is an alpine climb. You'll scramble heather benches (or traverse steeper snow) with good exposure, potential for loose rock and some lichen still here and there. Darin did a great job of cleaning up this route, but freeze thaw cycles could cause more rocks to loosen up and it will need traffic to keep it clean.

FA description:
P1 Easy climbing on clean granite. Step left to a bolted belay below an obvious narrow chimney. 5.4 ~200'

P2 Up a groove to the squeeze chimney then a difficult move onto a short bolted slab. The chimney can be avoided by moving right into a short corner (watch for loose blocks at it's top) 5.8 100'

P3 A nice pitch. Slab, then a shallow corner, pull over a small overhang and follow jigsaw rock to a tiny belay ledge. 5.7 100'

P4 Climb the long sustained splitter with a crux step across where the crack disappears briefly. Fun juggy climbing leads to a belay at the crest of the headwall. 5.8 120'

P5 A short scruffy pitch of easy face and slab climbing leads to the top of the face. 5.6 (not 5.8 like in the image below!) 80'

cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…

Location

North side of Vesper peak. Approach as per Ragged Edge.

Route is north facing, heather benches on approach will be quite slick if there is any moisture. There is also a short heather bench to reach the belay on P2. Give the route a day to dry after any significant precip.

Note if going in early summer the heather benches will be a steep snowfield. If you are not sure on conditions bring an axe and crampons. You can evaluate the route from the col and leave gear there if it is snow free, easily picking it up on your descent. The traverse is exposed above a cliff, if snow is too soft a fall unprotected would be bad m'kay.

Protection

This is what we used, if leading near your limit you may want more.

Single set of cams from micro to BD #2. Narrow head width of TCU/C3 can give you more placement options than a 4 lobe cam for P4.

Doubles in fingers to rattly fingers (BD .3-.5).

nuts from medium to RPs. Offsets placed well.

60cm slings and one or two 120cm.
We did the route last week and linked pitches 3 and 4 with a 60m (barely). Depending on how many pieces you plug you might run out of draws, so keep that in mind as p4 ends with a bolt-protected stretch (3 bolts).
Aug 22, 2017
Benjamin Pontecorvo
Seattle, WA
Benjamin Pontecorvo   Seattle, WA
This climb goes fast, and you can link pitches with a 70. From the summit, you can rap the top half of the route with a 70, swing across the ledge to the belay below the steep stacked blocks, and do the last three mega pitches of Ragged Edge , also link-able. We left the trail head at 5AM and had done both routes by 1PM

Now combine this day with doing Mile High Club on your way in, would be an awesome amount of climbing, with less approaching than a typical 2 day North Cascades trip. Aug 22, 2017
Vlad Alexandrov
Kirkland, WA
  5.8
Vlad Alexandrov   Kirkland, WA
  5.8
Climbed today after getting tired of waiting for the Ragged Edge line (judging by the number of parties climbing Ragged Edge, you would think it was one of the "50 classics" or something :)). I was a bit concerned that I didn't have enough small gear (didn't have any C3\TCUs) but it worked out just fine. I did use both 0.1 and 0.2 X4s on the finger crack pitch though. Didn't place a single nut anywhere on the route. YMMV. For me, the crux of the crack pitch was about 6 feet above the belay (though adequately protected), the step across was easy and with a bolt right in front of you.
Pretty nice route overall, a bit dirty in places but more traffic should fix that (and, given Ragged Edge's popularity, True Grit is certain to see a lot of traffic too). Aug 6, 2017
oretro
  5.8
oretro  
  5.8
When you are at the notch looking down at the lake, with the north face of Vesper to your left, go up (and left) to get to the base. The downward, sketchy-looking parts at the notch are not for you. Right now (mid-August), the path is worn enough and is not covered by snow, so you should be able to traverse comfortably without roping up.
I believe that the original start to Ragged Edge is the same as that of the only start to True Grit. If there is already one party waiting at this spot, consider waiting at the notch before proceeding over, as there really isn't room for more people at the base. Aug 15, 2016