Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Darin Berdinka - 9/11/2017
Page Views: 1,643 total · 99/month
Shared By: Darin Berdinka on Sep 12, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Sustained climbing up a nice friction slab, a tenuous seam and a long, exposed face. P1/2 and P3/4 are readily linked with a 60m rope. Rock quality on this part of the face is generally excellent.

P1 Climbs a great friction slab past 5 bolts. 80’ 5.9 or 5.10-

P2 Head straight up a much easier slab past 2 bolts, a fixed pin and a couple small gear placements. Just below a tree traverse left across a heather gully then up 8’ of 4th class choss to a fixed anchor. 115’ 5.7

P3 Juggy rock leads up and right into a nice long seam protected by a mix of gear and bolts. A great pitch. 90’ 5.9

P4 A short connector pitch climbs up then right past 4 bolts. 60’ H.6

P5 Climb straight up the face above on progressively harder face climbing past 9 bolts. The last 10’ will remind you that you’re still climbing off the Mountain Loop Highway. Need small cams or cordellete for belay. 140’ 5.9 or 5.10-

Location

Start from a large tree 50’ left of True Grit.

Protection

10 draws, couple small & medium stoppers, single set of cams tiny to 0.75 Camalot, maybe an extra finger size cam or two.

Photos

Sharon B.
Porltand, OR
  5.10- PG13
Sharon B.   Porltand, OR
  5.10- PG13
Climbed this 8/7/18. P1 is on awesome clean granite, pure friction, reminded me of Tuolumne slab climbing! Would make a fun alternative start to True Grit; clip the anchors and continue up to the TG anchors below the chimney. I thought the hardest climbing was on P1, but P3 was the technical crux. Heady climbing over thin, sparse, finicky gear. Final pitch was really fun climbing and awesome exposure - bolt spacing a little odd up high but falls would be clean. Hopefully my partners will add some photos soon! Aug 8, 2018
Anastasia B
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Anastasia B   Portland, OR
  5.10-
Climbed it with Sharon B on 08/07/18. Weird bolting. The moderate bottom part of this pitch is over-bolted for no reason (albeit taking perfect gear), while the 5.10 slab at the top has only 1 bolt in 30' (above the crux) with the only option for a grey alien in the widening diagonal crack of the 2 inch pebble which was pretty much useless. I was looking at a very bad fall of 40+ feet. Aug 9, 2018