Elevation: 5,933 ft
GPS: 48.084, -121.239 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 61,672 total · 3,415/month
Shared By: Daniel Chode Rider on Feb 12, 2021
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

Description

While technically in the 'North Cascades,' the Glacier Peak Wilderness covers a larger area from slightly east of the Cascade Crest, south of the line following Highway 20 and the Suiattle River, and north of Highway 2. This region is separate from the North Cascades National Park and surrounding areas as detailed in the 'North Cascades' sub-area of Washington's Northwest Region.

This part of the Cascade Range is one of the most remote regions in the lower 48. Smaller regions like the Pickets, the Bacon Peak area and the Chilliwack Range get more publicity for being horrendously bushy and inaccessible - but Glacier Peak Wilderness is a much larger plot of land that has zero roads and few trails. However, it lacks the ultradramatic rings of peaks that the Pickets have, and if anyone knows of a mountain offhand in this wilderness it is its namesake, the volcano Glacier Peak. 'Blue-collar alpinism' is often prevalent on lesser peaks; rocks like Wilmons Spire, Monte Cristo Peak, Addison Ridge, etc, are not quite as dramatic, tall, or well-known as the Boston Basin peaks, Washington Pass, or Mount Shuksan, but are climbed occasionally all the same, often when weather or crowds prohibit access to the taller, northernly neighbors. It doesn't help that visible and well-known peaks like Mount Index, Mount Baring, or Gunn Peak are rightly classed within the Skykomish Valley area. This sub-area is for the hard-to-access alpine peaks that don't quite reach the status of those worthy of a national park.

Detailed borders: All of Glacier Peak, Wild Sky and Henry M. Jackson Wilderness is included, besides these exceptions: the Entiat River region, directly along the Skykomish or Miller Rivers (or the rest of Highway 2), and anything north of the Cascade - Stehekin River line.

Getting There

Trails, trails, and more trails. Highway 2, the Mountain Loop Highway, and the Cascade River Road all provide helpful access, but everything will require hiking.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Glacier Peak Wilderness

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy Snow
 41
Gerdine Ridge/Cool Glacier
Snow
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
 13
Corkscrew Route
Trad, Snow, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2 Steep Snow
 6
Frostbite Ridge
Ice, Snow
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
 8
Dome Glacier
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
East Wilmans Spire
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 132
Ragged Edge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
North Face
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
South Ridge
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
True Grit
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 133
Mile High Club
Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Fish & Whistle
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Marvin's Ear
Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 22
Beyond Redlining
Sport, Alpine 11 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
East Face
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
West Face
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gerdine Ridge/Cool Glacier Glacier Peak
 41
Easy Snow Snow
Corkscrew Route Sloan Peak
 13
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Frostbite Ridge Glacier Peak
 6
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2 Steep Snow Ice, Snow
Dome Glacier Dome Peak
 8
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
East Wilmans Spire Wilmans Peak Group > Wilmans Spires
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Ragged Edge Vesper Peak
 132
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
North Face Vesper Peak
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
South Ridge Gunsight Range > S Peak
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
True Grit Vesper Peak
 49
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Mile High Club Morning Star Peak
 133
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
Fish & Whistle Vesper Peak
 12
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Marvin's Ear Morning Star Peak
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
Beyond Redlining Morning Star Peak
 22
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, Alpine 11 pitches
East Face Gunsight Range > Middle Peak
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
West Face Gunsight Range > N Peak
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Glacier Peak Wilderness »

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