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Routes in Vesper Peak

Fish & Whistle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ragged Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
True Grit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Description

Located in a lake basin near Monte Cristo along the Mountain Loop Highway, Vesper Peak provides several technical climbing routes on its north side. The summit provides views of Glacier Peak, Mount Rainier, Sloan Peak, and Mount Stuart.

The rock, consisting of primarily intrusive quartz diorite, is fairly solid, although it may be covered in vegetation for the newer routes. As these routes get climbed more, there will be likely be less vegetation and loose rock.

As there are no permits necessary and Vesper Peak is also a popular scramble (on its southeast slope), you will likely be sharing the peak and routes with others.

Getting There

Driving directions: From Granite Falls follow the Mountain Loop Highway east for 28 miles, turning right onto Sunrise Mine Road (Forest Road 4065) about 3 miles beyond (east of) the Big Four Picnic Area. Follow this gravel road for 2.3 miles to its terminus at the trailhead for Trail No. 707 (Sunrise Mine Trailhead, elev. 2400 ft).

Approach: Hike 3 miles to Headlee Pass, 4720'. From the pass, follow a trail around the south of Sperry Peak to the lake basin between Vesper and Sperry. From the lake basin, follow the hiking trail through the talus and heather until you reach a ledge at ~5760'. Traverse climbers right (northwest) on this ledge toward the col.

Elevation gain from trailhead to summit is 4115'. There are some nice campsites at the lake, although many people do this in a day.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vesper Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 52
Ragged Edge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
True Grit
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Fish & Whistle
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ragged Edge
 52
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
True Grit
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Fish & Whistle
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
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Photos

Benjamin Pontecorvo
Seattle, WA
Benjamin Pontecorvo   Seattle, WA
I saw some rap rings and maybe a bolt or two to climbers left of true grit- anyone have beta on other routes on this face? Aug 14, 2017

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