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Routes in Nap Wall Area

Crystal Crescent S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Flight of the Centurion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holloween Trick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Iliac T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Naptime T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Osprey Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Overarching Concern T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Slick Rock Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Under My Skin S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Urethra S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
YAP T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA 2016 Ney and Betsy Grant
Page Views: 241 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 25, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Named after an Osprey that cruised by the dome while the FA team climbed the route. This is a nice, varied route that starts on a face, into a crack, that runs out onto a face, then into a large flake system on the main wall. Start on small easy holds to a bolt (easily visible from the start), then straight up under a small roof and continue straight up into a large crack. The crack leads to an intersection, where you take a left and head up the steepest crack. Bring a thin nut tool in case you need to excavate some dirt (all the pro placements were dug out by the FA team, but perhaps not where you would like them). Hopefully this climb will see some traffic and will become cleaner as time goes by. The crack eventually runs out near the top but there is a bolt for protection in the blank section. This leads you to the base of the main wall, a big sandy ledge and the first belay.

From here head up the main wall past a bolt to a flake system, then up a full pitch of easy, fun flake and face climbing to a natural belay when you feel comfortable walking up from there. Or belay a third pitch all the way to the brow of the dome.

Location

To find the climb, walk past Crystal Wall Route (the clean white granite face that you have to climb up to) and look for a granite left-going ramp that leads to a notch. To preview the route, don't take the ramp but head down and left to stand between two pine trees (the only ones around) and you can see the crack you are heading for. Go back to the dome and scramble up the ramp and through the notch to find a sandy ledge that you start the climb from.

On the topo image found under "Nap Wall Area", this is climb number 11.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Ney Grant
Pollock Pines, CA
 
Ney Grant   Pollock Pines, CA
 
So glad you had fun!

As far as I know, that was the second ascent of Osprey Cracks! Jul 22, 2016
GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
  5.6 PG13
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
  5.6 PG13
Talk about an adventure. I led P1 the business to the sandy ledge. The crack was a little awkward but awesome position. P2 we took it to the max at 220' for a big R traverse at the end to the Nap Wall rap station. Glad I did this,super wild and fun climbing. Jul 21, 2016