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Routes in Nap Wall Area

Crystal Crescent S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of the Centurion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holloween Trick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Iliac T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Naptime T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Osprey Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Overarching Concern T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Slick Rock Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Under My Skin S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Urethra S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
YAP T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 309 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 25, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This enjoyable face climb goes straight up the middle of one of the main features of the dome. Not-a-penis. At 5.8 there is just enough friction to make it a pleasurable experience and the protection is adequate so you can enjoy the climax of the route without much worry. You can stop at the intermediate rap anchor/belay but if you are having fun it can be pretty darn hard to stop halfway.

Location

The start of the climb is at the very tip of the not-a-p***s, reached via easy 5th class scrambling from the very bottom.

On the topo image found under "Nap Wall Area", this is climb number 10.

Protection

Bolts, with ring anchors on both belay stations. It is a 70 meter (two 70 meter ropes) rap from the top chains.

Photos

BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.8 PG13
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.8 PG13
Tried to climb in 1 pitch. Came up short of the anchors by about 5 meters (belayer was at the tip of the penis, not at the lower bushes). Belayer had to climb up the left ramp so I could anchor in.
The pitches appear to be something like 32m and 43m. To rap with one 70m rope we had to use the anchor of "Under my Skin", followed by the mid station of this route. 3 raps total.

The top anchor of P2 seems unnecessarily high on low angle slab. If it was placed 35 meters above the P1 anchors the logistics would be much better.

Getting to the 1st bolt is a bit spicy, hence PG13. Sep 18, 2017
Ney Grant
Pollock Pines, CA
 
Ney Grant   Pollock Pines, CA
 
Hi Bruce,

In retrospect, we could have done it better. "Urethra" was already there in 2015 as a series of old 1/4" bolts and leper hangers. We don't know who did it. Two bolts were at the top. We didn't bother measuring, we just replaced what was there and picked a bolt lower to add another to for a belay.

I did want to go back and see how it works with one rope but never did.

Your suggestion of moving the top belay station down sounds good and if I'm out there doing any work with the drill I'll do that. Sep 18, 2017
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.8 PG13
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.8 PG13
Hi Ney. Right on, that explains the somewhat out of character bolting/anchor job. Yeah, a little bit of adjustment would make a huge improvement to the logistics.
And I should have said above, it is a fun route! Sep 19, 2017

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