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Routes in 4. The Nose
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Black Vulture T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cheeky TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Left Sinus TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lifted T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Open Jaw TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pince-Nez TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Eyebrow TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Nostril TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Undeviated Septum TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 41.146, -74.16354 |
| FA: | TR Karel Hrbacek |
| Page Views: | 729 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Apr 29, 2016 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Delicate sequence on small holds, then easier fun arete climbing.
Start on the right side of the arete, then pretty much straight up -- staying "tight" to the arete, not using larger holds out in the middle of the ridge face (which might be part of the next route to the left).
. (Variation easier: Use a larger sloping hold in the middle of the ridge face about eight feet up for the left foot).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
The arete which forms the right edge of the four-foot-wide ridge coming down south from the top of the Nose.
See on routes photo
Protection
To set up Top-Rope, see Description of The Nose area.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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