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Routes in 4. The Nose

Cheeky TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Nostril TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left Sinus TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Open Jaw TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pince-Nez TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Eyebrow TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Nostril TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Right Sinus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undeviated Septum TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 31 total, 2/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 22, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Worthwhile moves at that difficulty grade.

Up the small arete to a ledge at base of the big left-facing inside corner. Diagonal up left in gully that leads to the notch at the left end of the roof in the left side of the Nose. Up onto the slab above the roof, then trend right up that to its top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).


There are three parallel-running ridges or aretes below left from the roof in the left side of the Nose -- left to right:
1) the arete which forms the right (E) edge of the Dragon right-half face.
2) about five feet to the right of the first arete, separated by an up+down crack, from which a sort of pillar emergse high along its left side. The crest of this arete is a bit lowera bit lower than the first, and its bottom end is higher up the slope than that of the first arete.
3) a much smaller arete separated by a grass dirt gully. The crest of this arete is much lower, and its bottom end is much higher up the sloep than the second arete.

This route starts at the bottom of the small 3rd ridge / arete.

--> See on this routes Photo


Top-Rope: To set up top anchor, see Description of The Nose area.

Lead: Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.