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Routes in Pharos Gully

Cheops T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fly By Night T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gwen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milk Blood T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Only Way to Fly, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spellbinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rod Young, Kevin Otten, 1979
Page Views: 43 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Apr 11, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball

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Step delicately across the eroding gully to the base of the bent gum tree. From here, pull side to side up the twin thin cracks through the fat baby bottom bulges. Find a semi-rest in the middle, then make hard moves through the top half to a committing rightwards traverse. Jugs to the top. Build a gear belay and figure out your descent.


Outside Fly By Night gully, right (downhill) side, next to the tree


Standard light rack (emphasis small)


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