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Routes in Horsethief Spire West Face

Big Stick, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Political Nightmare S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
RIP T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spanky's Delight S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Bob Dickinson 1995
Page Views: 120 total · 4/month
Shared By: Mike Madsen on Mar 17, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This line starts on a cracked face.The Busse/Burr guidebook rates this as 5.8 PG-13. You can place some small piece(s) here. It feels like an easy boulder problem so if you boulder alot there really shouldn't be a PG13 rating feels like a highball thats easy. Moves up to a balancing like rock you can place a cam here with a long sling and then pull the bulge and up to the anchor. Doesn't look like much but turns out to be a fun warm up.

Location

NE face in the gully leading up to RIP.

Protection

only a few pieces. I used a nut for the first placement and then placed a #2 camalot up above.

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