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Routes in Horsethief Spire West Face

Big Stick, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Political Nightmare S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
RIP T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spanky's Delight S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Bob Dickson, Mike Nona 1995
Page Views: 179 total · 7/month
Shared By: Kirtis Courkamp on Oct 26, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Harder Crystal climbing for the first few bolts leads to a really enjoyable dike / feature. The route then passes the midway rap anchors and tends right at the ledge up to a dihedral / gully to a summit block.


Route is located on southwest side of Horse thief spire. Approach from first parking lot aka Trail 14. Hike a bit tell on the south west side of horse thief spire. Cross the creek and head uphill. Down hill from Spanky's delight and Stairway to heaven but on a detached formation from them.


10 - 12 bolts a few pieces of gear bd .5 - 2 Long Slings if doing it in 1 long pitch. I recommend doing it in 1 pitch. You can get down with a single rope 2 raps