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Routes in Horsethief Spire West Face

Big Stick, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Political Nightmare S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
RIP T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spanky's Delight S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Eric Sutton, James Berry, Bob Dickenson, 1994
Page Views: 301 total · 10/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Aug 14, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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This is one of those few Black Hills gear routes, no bolts until you hit the anchors. Steep and sustained on great pro! It is recommended that you scramble to the summit, the views are outstanding!


The start of the route is about 10' past Spanky. Look for a zig-zagging crack that goes up an otherwise featureless wall. Belay/rappel anchors on top.


Gear: red C3 - #2 C4, doubles red - yellow C3, set of stoppers and micro nuts.



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