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Routes in Mount Athabasca

Bypass T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-
North Face Var. T WI4 M4
North Glacier T Mod. Snow
Regular North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2 Steep Snow PG13
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Old School? or Jon Jugenheimer & Kendra Stritch
Page Views: 271 total, 13/month
Shared By: jon jugenheimer on Mar 1, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Ice Field Snocoaches gate Details


A few hundred feet left of the classic North Face finish a streak of water ice will sometimes form to provide another interesting exit from the face onto the ridge above.

The line is one rope length long from the top of the steeping ice/snow face below. Climb the snow/ice through the lower rock outcroppings and set a belay to the left of the line with good with rock gear. The line isn't that steep, with possible run outs if the ice is thin. The top belay above the ice/mixed pitch was almost non existent, as I found a slot for one nut in the frozen rocks and used a rock rib to sit on and squeeze with my legs to belay from.

One more rope length to the ridge line and you are on the top!

Descend any of the regular options, AA col or back down the regular Athabasca route.


Screws/snow pickets for the opening ice or snow face to the rock bands. A small rack, including pins and stubbies will get you up the one pitch of real climbing.

No pics yet, can't find them in my files...damn!