All Locations > International > North America > Canada > Alberta > Icefields Parkway > Mount Athabasca
North Face Var.
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, Grade III|
|FA:||Old School? or Jon Jugenheimer & Kendra Stritch|
|Page Views:||271 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||jon jugenheimer on Mar 1, 2016|
|Admins:||Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra|
Ice Field Snocoaches gate Details
The Ice Field Snocoaches gate is closed during buisness hours, but the gate is open in the wee hours. This allows for a alpine start, but you may have to wait for a bus to open the gate to get out during the day.
DescriptionA few hundred feet left of the classic North Face finish a streak of water ice will sometimes form to provide another interesting exit from the face onto the ridge above.
The line is one rope length long from the top of the steeping ice/snow face below. Climb the snow/ice through the lower rock outcroppings and set a belay to the left of the line with good with rock gear. The line isn't that steep, with possible run outs if the ice is thin. The top belay above the ice/mixed pitch was almost non existent, as I found a slot for one nut in the frozen rocks and used a rock rib to sit on and squeeze with my legs to belay from.
One more rope length to the ridge line and you are on the top!
Descend any of the regular options, AA col or back down the regular Athabasca route.