All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Icefields Parkway > Mt Athabasca

North Face Var.

Name: North Face Var.
Rating: 2.0

WI4 M4

Routes in Mount Athabasca

L › R R › L A › Z

	AA Col Mod. Snow
	Bypass T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- Mod. Snow
	Hourglass, The AI3-4
	North Face Var. T WI4 M4
	North Glacier T Mod. Snow
	Regular North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2 Steep Snow PG13
	Silverhorn Mod. Snow

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Type:	Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, Grade III
GPS:	52.181, -117.20124
FA:	Old School? or Jon Jugenheimer & Kendra Stritch
Page Views:	1,444 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Double J on Mar 1, 2016
Admins:	Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Ice Field Snocoaches gate Details

The Ice Field Snocoaches gate is closed during buisness hours, but the gate is open in the wee hours. This allows for a alpine start, but you may have to wait for a bus to open the gate to get out during the day.

Description

A few hundred feet left of the classic North Face finish a streak of water ice will sometimes form to provide another interesting exit from the face onto the ridge above.

The line is one rope length long from the top of the steeping ice/snow face below. Climb the snow/ice through the lower rock outcroppings and set a belay to the left of the line with good with rock gear. The line isn't that steep, with possible run outs if the ice is thin. The top belay above the ice/mixed pitch was almost non existent, as I found a slot for one nut in the frozen rocks and used a rock rib to sit on and squeeze with my legs to belay from.

One more rope length to the ridge line and you are on the top!

Descend any of the regular options, AA col or back down the regular Athabasca route.

Protection

Screws/snow pickets for the opening ice or snow face to the rock bands. A small rack, including pins and stubbies will get you up the one pitch of real climbing.