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Routes in Mount Athabasca

Bypass T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- Mod. Snow
North Face Var. T WI4 M4
North Glacier T Mod. Snow
Regular North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2 Steep Snow PG13
Silverhorn Mod. Snow
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Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 4500 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 148 total · 11/month
Shared By: Alexander Toshev on Jul 12, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Access Issue: Ice Field Snocoaches gate Details

Description

A moderate sustained route.

Location

After crossing the glacier under the Silverhorn and the North Face, the route goes on directly up to the left of the face toward the ridge. This section consists of 4 - 6 pitches of 40-50% snow up one of the several possible gullies. After getting on the ridge the first couple of pitches are snow, followed by a right rock traverse on the face and an ice gully leading to the ridge again. From this point on it is rock climbing and walking on the ridge.

One goes down via the Silverhorn false summit and the shoulder behind it.

Protection

It is limestone with OK rock. One can use rock protection on the ridge, screws for the ice gully and screws or pickets for the snow sextion.

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