Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Kruszyna and Andrews - Aug 1963 (North to South)
Page Views: 1,007 total · 17/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Feb 29, 2016
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

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NOTE: Length, # pitches, and grade are very approximate and from a long-ago memory. The crux was done in the rain, so that may contribute to "grade-flation". Technically, also "A-0" or "A-1" as there is at least one rap during the "ascent".

Climbs along the ridgeline (and occasionally a bit to the side) of a most amazing knife-like horizontal blade of granite. Hold up you hand, sight along the axis of your extended fingers, then enlarge by a factor of 10,000 (or so !?) and this is the geographical structure of the Archduke Trio.

Not recommended if there is likehood of thunderstorms! Both shelter from lightening and retreat down either face is problematical.

START: On the right, north (see photo#2) with easy scrambling for a while to where the technical climbing starts.
After the first summit, move along right to a short rap into the notch. Climb up to the 2nd summit.
Descend into a notch, then traverse horizontally (for 2 pitches?) on the north (right-hand) face. Then climb up the face (technical crux) to the 3rd summit.
Rap from 3rd summit down ridgeline [photo#1] to glacier. (3 raps)


Approach from the lower Vowell glacier, moving up into the cirque and head right for the start.(photo)


Usual alpine stuff, lots of long over-the-shoulder-and-longer slings to sling spikes and boulders. Infrequently done (In 1982 we thought we were doing the 2nd ascent, but it probably was the 3rd.) so don't expect fixed rap anchors.