Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 858 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jeff Edge on Feb 25, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Definitely one of the best face routes at Meadow Camp. Start on slightly overhanging face holds just a few feet right of the start for "Solstice" and work up to an interesting traverse right and up to a big ledge.
From the ledge you have two choices:

1) move left and make a difficult balance move left around the arete, and continue up the left side reaching back around right when you get to the obvious pockets. With your right hand in the pockets, make a hard pull to a small pinch on the arete, then gain the top! (11d/12a) (Note: you do have to contrive slightly to keep yourself from reaching all the way over to the right edge when you gain the pockets, but otherwise this really is a pretty natural line)

Or:
2) Stay on the right side of the arete, moving up with one hand on each side of the pillar, utilizing heel hooks on both sides. (10d/11a) (this way also feels a little contrived since you aren't fully entering the crack on the right)

Location

The striking arete just to the right of "Solstice."

Protection

Single eye bolt, easily backed up with the anchor for "Solstice" 3' away.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Yea, I used the arete only, and I thought it was about 11d or 12a. Going up the arete to the upper pockets 10' before the top and bailing out right was about 11a. Feb 26, 2016
Jeff Edge
  5.11a
Jeff Edge  
  5.11a
Yeah that actually sounds about right to me, 10c was probably a bit of a sandbag for even the easier way so I changed it. Feb 26, 2016