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Routes in Meadow Camp

5.11 Face TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Awesome Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bulge route TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Burly Hands in Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cerchunk Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chinese Sun TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cracked Dish T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dew, Chalk, and Blood T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Chunk T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fingers through Bulges T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flaky Jake T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun Flared Chimney T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Man T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hercules T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Crack Batman! T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Homer's Flake T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Homer's Odyssey T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kitzen Coyote T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Nice face climb TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Book T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pounded Nail T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pre-School T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Psycho, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pure Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right on Joe T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Searching for Stars TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Second Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short but Steep Hands T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solstice T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Splitter Fingers T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stars Next Door T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Straight Split T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tick Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unconscious Contingency TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Underpull Pillar Route TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V4-5 6B+
Warm-up Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wide Jam T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
unknown arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 828 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jeff Edge on Feb 25, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Definitely one of the best face routes at Meadow Camp. Start on slightly overhanging face holds just a few feet right of the start for "Solstice" and work up to an interesting traverse right and up to a big ledge.
From the ledge you have two choices:

1) move left and make a difficult balance move left around the arete, and continue up the left side reaching back around right when you get to the obvious pockets. With your right hand in the pockets, make a hard pull to a small pinch on the arete, then gain the top! (11d/12a) (Note: you do have to contrive slightly to keep yourself from reaching all the way over to the right edge when you gain the pockets, but otherwise this really is a pretty natural line)

Or:
2) Stay on the right side of the arete, moving up with one hand on each side of the pillar, utilizing heel hooks on both sides. (10d/11a) (this way also feels a little contrived since you aren't fully entering the crack on the right)

Location

The striking arete just to the right of "Solstice."

Protection

Single eye bolt, easily backed up with the anchor for "Solstice" 3' away.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Yea, I used the arete only, and I thought it was about 11d or 12a. Going up the arete to the upper pockets 10' before the top and bailing out right was about 11a. Feb 26, 2016
Jeff Edge
  5.11a
Jeff Edge  
  5.11a
Yeah that actually sounds about right to me, 10c was probably a bit of a sandbag for even the easier way so I changed it. Feb 26, 2016

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