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Routes in Meadow Camp

5.11 Face TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Awesome Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bulge route TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Burly Hands in Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cerchunk Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracked Dish T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dew, Chalk, and Blood T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Chunk T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fingers through Bulges T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flaky Jake T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun Flared Chimney T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Man T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hercules T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Crack Batman! T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Homer's Flake T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Homer's Odyssey T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kitzen Coyote T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Nice face climb TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Book T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pounded Nail T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pre-School T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Psycho, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pure Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right on Joe T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Searching for Stars TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Second Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short but Steep Hands T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solstice T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Splitter Fingers T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stars Next Door T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Straight Split T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tick Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unconscious Contingency TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Warm-up Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wide Jam T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
unknown arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Description

This is a short south and east facing basalt cliff band just a few minutes outside Bend in national Forest, best for top-roping. The cliffs are between 20 and 40 feet tall. There are bolted anchors at least every ten feet along the top of the cliff. Most obvious climbs follow cracks and/or corners of some kind, although the faces between can also be climbed. The climbing can be delicate or physical and is almost all vertical.

While you may not be able to get in as many pitches as in the gym, it is real rock, outside, often secluded and by the river. It gets pretty hot in summer due to the aspect although large pines shade a handful of the climbs.

Although some climbs were probably named at one point, the top rope anchors mean that you can really climb anything, anywhere and "routes" aren't really defined. There are no bolts for sport climbing, please don't bolt unless you are replacing existing anchors. It's a 30 foot cliff with cracks and everything has already been climbed a hundred times on TR and as high ball boulder problems. If you want to clip bolts go to Smith.

There are also some good boulders along the base and at the downstream end of the cliffs.

Getting There

Head out of Bend on Cascade Lakes Highway. Take the immediate left on a dirt road before the Widgi Creek golf course. Follow the road about a mile to the first parking lot by the Deschutes River. Walk downstream a couple hundred feet and you will see a climbers trail heading up to the cliff band.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Meadow Camp

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Double Chunk
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Cracked Dish
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Fun Flared Chimney
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Solstice
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Dew, Chalk, and Blood
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Happy Man
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Straight Split
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Splitter Fingers
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Fingers through Bulges
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Right on Joe
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Second Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Crescent Crack
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
The Psycho
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Awesome Arete
TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Searching for Stars
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Chunk
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Cracked Dish
 9
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Fun Flared Chimney
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Solstice
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Dew, Chalk, and Blood
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Happy Man
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Straight Split
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Splitter Fingers
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Fingers through Bulges
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Right on Joe
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Second Crack
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Crescent Crack
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Psycho
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Awesome Arete
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Searching for Stars
 4
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Meadow Camp »

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Photos

Really pleasant setting for climbing here.

I added all the routes that were already listed on RC.com here, using the names the people there gave them. The routes that weren't listed there, I added generally just using basic descriptive names. Hopefully somebody will have actual names to contribute. Feb 26, 2016

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