Elevation: 3,844 ft
GPS: 44.001, -121.378 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,919 total · 847/month
Shared By: Jason Chinchen on Nov 26, 2014
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

This is a short south and east facing basalt cliff band just a few minutes outside Bend in national Forest, best for top-roping. The cliffs are between 20 and 40 feet tall. There are bolted anchors at least every ten feet along the top of the cliff. Most obvious climbs follow cracks and/or corners of some kind, although the faces between can also be climbed. The climbing can be delicate or physical and is almost all vertical.

While you may not be able to get in as many pitches as in the gym, it is real rock, outside, often secluded and by the river. It gets pretty hot in summer due to the aspect although large pines shade a handful of the climbs.

Although some climbs were probably named at one point, the top rope anchors mean that you can really climb anything, anywhere and "routes" aren't really defined. There are no bolts for sport climbing, please don't bolt unless you are replacing existing anchors. It's a 30 foot cliff with cracks and everything has already been climbed a hundred times on TR and as high ball boulder problems. If you want to clip bolts go to Smith.

There are also some good boulders along the base and at the downstream end of the cliffs.

Getting There

Head out of Bend on Cascade Lakes Highway. Take the immediate left on a dirt road before the Widgi Creek golf course. Follow the road about a mile to the first parking lot by the Deschutes River. Walk downstream a couple hundred feet and you will see a climbers trail heading up to the cliff band.

44 Total Climbs

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Location: Meadow Camp Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Meadow Camp

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Double Chunk
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Solstice
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Dew, Chalk, and Blood
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Happy Man
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Pure Hand Jam
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Straight Split
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Chinese Sun
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Fingers through Bulges
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Right on Joe
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Wide Jam
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Second Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Midwestern Transplant
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
The Psycho
Trad, TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
5.11 Face
TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Searching for Stars
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Chunk
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Solstice
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Dew, Chalk, and Blood
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Happy Man
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Pure Hand Jam
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Straight Split
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Chinese Sun
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Fingers through Bulges
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Right on Joe
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Wide Jam
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Second Crack
 12
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Midwestern Transplant
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Psycho
 12
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
5.11 Face
 3
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
Searching for Stars
 7
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
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