Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Dario Ventura, 2009
Page Views: 562 total · 14/month
Shared By: Matt Looby on Jan 31, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Start on a jug or two and move up, bumping your left hand up a few times. Cruise up to a hard compression sequence before the break in the wall and bust out right to the jug. Crawl into the ledge if you want to. Head up on bad crimps and slopers (beta: right kneebar pad is very helpful here) and get into the crux sequence involving a right hand to a decent edge. Don't relax yet as you need to pull of a weird left hand pocket series to get to the next good hold. Easier climbing to the chains.

Location

Right of Better than Homemade and left of High Life. This is the line that takes on the right-facing scooped crimps in the middle of the golden wall.

Protection

7 bolts to anchor

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