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Routes in Hay Stack Rock

Beer Barrel Arete S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Keg Blues S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
School Daze S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, TR, 55 ft
FA: Randall Green (2002)
Page Views: 429 total · 13/month
Shared By: Adam Pankratz on Jan 31, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

Nice granite slab with a few ledges and left leaning cracks. Can be top roped by scrambling up the north side of the rock.

Location

Located on the SE corner of the crag, one of the first routes you come to as you approach from the parking area.

Protection

7 bolts to chains.

Photos

Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
 
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
 
This climb's anchor currently consists only of bolts and hangers, no chains. The walk-off is an easy eastward scramble down the sloping ramp to a short step with large holds.

Fairly long pitch but you have to zigzag back and forth on ramps and rails to keep this thing at 5.7. Following the direct bolt line feels at least 5.9. The climbing above the third bolt is pretty forgettable and somewhat dangerous for the leader.

A large, stone memorial was bolted to the rock just right of the start of School Daze in 2015. Not trying to be insensitive to the deceased or their family, but it's kinda jerry-rigged with lightweight shelving brackets and will probably fall off before too long. Dwight's low-profile memorial below the King at Spire Rock would be a good model to follow for future installations. Apr 21, 2016
Adam Pankratz
Montana
  5.7
Adam Pankratz   Montana
  5.7
I would agree on the grade. It feels sandbagged if you don't use the ramps and just go straight up. Apr 21, 2016
Agreed that the direct line is not 5.7 and is more like 5.9. After leading it the zig-zag way, I then toproped it the direct way and found it much harder.

Also, there were just 6 bolts before the two hangars for anchors (creating a long, possibly bad fall). However, you can clip one of the hangars, top out, and then find some rappel rings set a few yards back. Jul 15, 2018

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