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Routes in Hay Stack Rock

Beer Barrel Arete S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Keg Blues S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
School Daze S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 299 total · 11/month
Shared By: Bryan Gartland on Apr 21, 2016
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

This sport route is just left of the Beer Barrel Arête on the SW corner of Haystack Rock. Although somewhat of a squeeze job at the start, the bottom section has a few fun but delicate moves up a V-shaped feature to a jug next to a small tree. The difficulty decreases just past the tree.

Many people seem to ease the challenge by climbing to the right of the first two bolts on the low angle slab that is the start of the Beer Barrel Arête, reaching far to their the left to clip. By taking that line you're essentially on BBA and missing out on the best part of the route. I think it's fair to say that the start is kind of contrived.

Location

Shares a chain anchor with the Beer Barrel Arête. A toprope can be set by carefully scrambling up 3rd-4th Class ledges on the west face of Haystack.

Protection

Bolts to chains

Photos

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I climbed this route yesterday morning. On my way down, I noticed that the first hangar was not only spinning but that the nut was loose as well, and I could have removed the hangar by hand if I had wanted to. As I descended from the next route, I tried to tighten it with my nut tool, but I did not have the right size on it. Instead, I tightened it by hand as much as possible, but I'm posting this in hopes that someone else with the right tool will tighten it better. 1 day ago

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