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Honeymoon's Over
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 0 from 0
votes
Routes in Punch and Judy Towers
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Good To Go S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Honeymoon's Over S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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JJ Goes to Hollywood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Just Do It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Don’t Do It (Ext.) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Lemmonade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Lizard Marmalade Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lizard Marmelade, Girlie Man's var. T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mondo Bizzaro T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Power Hungry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Secret Passage, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sheik Yerbouti T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Triple Play S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 32.36856, -110.71233 |
| FA: | Scott Ayers & John Fowler (1990) |
| Page Views: | 814 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Hendrixson on Nov 23, 2015 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
A less-than-vertical romp up a crumbly face, Honeymoon's Over is a bit rough around the edges but ultimately worth engaging. Stem 15ft past the first bolt before fully committing to the face. Pull a wild, non-obvious series of moves to reach the third bolt. From the third bolt to the chains the climbing is reminiscent of The Forgotten Wall.
While listed as a single sport pitch, Honeymoon's Over is actually a two pitch route. The second pitch climbs to the top of the formation and requires traditional equipment. I cannot comment on this pitch.
Location
is located between Mondo Bizzaro and Power Hungry. The former is to the left; the latter is to the right. The route starts immediately past a gap and hugs the left corner of the formation.
Protection
9 bolts to ring anchors. At times there is some distance between bolts but their placement is well thought-out. The bolting is straight-line while the climbing frequently wanders to either side.
I personally used a stick clip to secure the first bolt and to decipher a sequence between the second and third bolts. Once comfortable with the climbing, I no longer need this aid.
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