Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle
Page Views: 6,301 total · 41/month
Shared By: WSnyder on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

One of the best trad pitches on the mountain and a must do. The gear placements are there but may not be right where you want them which provides for a real thrill.

Location

Right and downhill from the sport climbs at the left of crag. Up the large left-facing dihedral w/cracks, take the smaller crack almost straight up and slightly right at ~15-20 feet. Down-climb tree off the backside of the formation to get down (if is it still there).

Protection

Gear

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Memorable route, and memorable route name! Apr 10, 2007
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
 
This climb is fantastic; it is perhaps the best single pitch climb on Mount Lemmon! Doubles of small cams are helpful on this one if you'd like a lot of pro. Mar 12, 2009
there is also a set of anchors on the east side of the tower to rap from. be careful accessing them as they are on a sloping ledge. nothing too scary, but it wouldn't be fun to slip. Apr 12, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
You can rap off the belay bolts too (into the gully w the trees).
A bit of a hard pull to get the rope back but that's about it.

P.S. Please don't take the biner left on the anchor, it's there for community use. Dec 5, 2009
MattB  
The tree is doing well, looks better than 10 years ago... it's pretty easy to use a rope through the anchors to help get into the tree, then pull when still high in it(saving lots of rope wear). Mondo Classic route!! Jan 14, 2010
Ben Venter
Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
Ben Venter   Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
One of the best routes in Southern Arizona for sure. A few exciting thin moves in the middle to a steep, juggy and interesting finish. Engaging to the last move. Double cams from tips sized to thin hands did not feel excessive. Single 1, 2 and 3 camalot and a set of nuts. A little spicy in the middle but the good placements are there. The downclimb into the tree was exciting but quite secure. Mar 5, 2011
Jimbo  
I've always thought we should install an actual rap from this thing before someone snaps off a limb from that tired tree we all down climb. That tree is definitely showing signs of abuse. It's not nearly as healthy as it was in 1996 the first time I did LMD. May 6, 2014
Cocanower
The High Country
 
Cocanower   The High Country
 
sandbag at 10+ maybe. Nov 17, 2014
jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
  5.11b
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
  5.11b
What a great line. Thx to Andy B, Canada and the asca there is now a rap setup so you don't have to down climb the tree. Go get on it. Congrats to joe silver on sending today. Awesome to follow and get a free preview. Can't wait to get on it. Nuts, Doubles .3-.75 single red c3, 1c4 and 2c4 seemed adequate

Edit.
After leading a bunch my rack changed some
1X black and blue totem (red-yellow c3)
Doubles yellow totem (.4 c4)-orange totem(2 c4)
Triple green c4
Dmm offset nuts including the biggest brassie #6
Extra blue grey and turquoise offsets
It's a little excessive but makes me feel good Jan 22, 2016
Steven Amter  
 
On the wall of my orthopedic surgeon's office (in Chevy Chase, MD) there is a giant 80's vintage photo of Brad Smith (I think) on LMD. Classic route! Mar 17, 2016
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
 
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
 
It is just possible to rap off from the new anchor with a 70m rope, but DEFINITELY tie knots in the end and keep a watchful eye as you descend. You'll probably end up at the end of your line on top of or just above the little pedestal at the start of the route. Make sure that your rope is in front of the tree branches before you start rapping, or it'll be hard to pull... Mar 18, 2016