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Routes in Punch and Judy Towers

Good To Go S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Honeymoon's Over S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
JJ Goes to Hollywood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just Do It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemmonade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Lizard Marmalade Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Marmelade, Girlie Man's var. T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mondo Bizzaro T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Power Hungry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sheik Yerbouti T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Triple Play S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 155 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, 1984. Direct start, Steiger, 1986
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Mondo is yet another climb that apparently faded into obscurity as the result of changing ethics (this was put up from the ground, with no hanging), but also probably because of the stuck porta-potty discussed on the crag's main page (incredible). When Paul led the crux pitch in 1984, he may have had the best crimp strength in the state, even rivaling that of Bob Murray. Another local grown climber (he went to Tucson High with Grossman), Paul went to NAU (where he put up a bunch of hard routes, e.g., Sail Away & Davidson Dihedral at Paradise Forks) but came back to Tucson for a few years during the 80s before heading to New Mexico. Paul is really, really old now. Anyway, this was a test piece at the time -- crimpy and technical (I recall doing some funky, dynamic toe stab way out right).

The original start is in the chimney. Cruise up it a short ways, clip a bolt, then step left onto the face. Several bolts protect the crux section up into a corner. Height is a definite advantage. Climb the corner until possible to step left to intermittent cracks (5.10) and belay from bolts. (2) Easier climbing finishes up the crack above. The direct start (5.11-) avoids the chimney. (Note: The FA party for Triple Play may have bolted over some of the upper part of the first pitch).

Location

Start out of the easy chimney to the right of Lizard Marmalade's crack (right of the bolt line for Triple Play).

Protection

Standard Tucson trad rack.

Photos

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While I'd love to take Steiger's credit, I think this route was Peter Noebels and I. While it was my brain child, I put the bolts in on the lead but hanging from a hook. Which was scary enough. Frankly, I don't recall if I led this thing with hangs but I do recall working it with Peter a couple of times before he got the clean lead from the ground up. So the FA lead S/B credited to Peter.

As I recall, it's a bit testy. I believe we put in two bolts, gear in the corner and then Peter ran to the top, up the corner and then launched for the summit. But take this history with some suspicion...

We did do it ground up with no hanging. I mean, we'd fall and come back down to the rest. Peter's lead was clean all the way. I believe the 2nd managed the same, FWIW (which ain't much.) Dec 1, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Just read the description of this climb ... ground up 5.12 with no hanging. Awesome! Aug 23, 2011