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Mondo Bizzaro
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 155 ft (47 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, 1984. Direct start, Steiger, 1986 |
Page Views: | 755 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Mondo is yet another climb that apparently faded into obscurity as the result of changing ethics (this was put up from the ground, with no hanging), but also probably because of the stuck porta-potty discussed on the crag's main page (incredible). When Paul led the crux pitch in 1984, he may have had the best crimp strength in the state, even rivaling that of Bob Murray. Another local grown climber (he went to Tucson High with Grossman), Paul went to NAU (where he put up a bunch of hard routes, e.g., Sail Away & Davidson Dihedral at Paradise Forks) but came back to Tucson for a few years during the 80s before heading to New Mexico. Paul is really, really old now. Anyway, this was a test piece at the time -- crimpy and technical (I recall doing some funky, dynamic toe stab way out right).
The original start is in the chimney. Cruise up it a short ways, clip a bolt, then step left onto the face. Several bolts protect the crux section up into a corner. Height is a definite advantage. Climb the corner until possible to step left to intermittent cracks (5.10) and belay from bolts. (2) Easier climbing finishes up the crack above. The direct start (5.11-) avoids the chimney. (Note: The FA party for Triple Play may have bolted over some of the upper part of the first pitch).
The original start is in the chimney. Cruise up it a short ways, clip a bolt, then step left onto the face. Several bolts protect the crux section up into a corner. Height is a definite advantage. Climb the corner until possible to step left to intermittent cracks (5.10) and belay from bolts. (2) Easier climbing finishes up the crack above. The direct start (5.11-) avoids the chimney. (Note: The FA party for Triple Play may have bolted over some of the upper part of the first pitch).
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