The Raw Deal
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Routes in Spring Creek
|Restoration of American Liberty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Brutal Edge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Jaccard Hand-O-Lin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Left Deal, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|One Messiah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Raw Deal, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Rigel's Wall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Right Deal, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 75 ft|
|FA:||Chris Heideman and the professor (summer 2006)|
|Page Views:||97 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||the professor on Oct 23, 2015|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis is the current approach pitch for the Left and Right Deals.
Look for some bolts on the gray slab (drilled on lead and not optimally placed). Climb up and left following the bolts. Mantle and start a long unprotected traverse right with lots of rope drag.
The goal is to gain the top of a block below the alcove that contains the Left and Right Deals. There are two options:
1) grunge up the rotten OW that forms the left edge of the block (poor pro, don't fall)
2) continue traversing and climb the dirty dihedral that forms the right edge of the block (the rope drag is nearly insurmountable)
ProtectionStandard rack and long runners. An OW sized cam may provide psychological protection for the left finish.
Walk 1/4 mile up the wash from the initial narrows to the next narrows. After a sharp left turn you will see the the obvious alcove on the left side above a gray friction slab. The route goes up this slab.
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