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Routes in Spring Creek

Brutal Edge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaccard Hand-O-Lin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Deal, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
One Messiah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Raw Deal, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Restoration of American Liberty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rigel's Wall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Deal, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: the professor and Rigel
Page Views: 597 total · 16/month
Shared By: the professor on Oct 20, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Pitch 1 (The Flake, 50 feet)
Stick clip the bolt and mantle. Climb a flake crack, then a short flare. Belay at a single bolt (with gear back-up) under a roof. 5.10

Pitch 2 (Falling Petal, 75 feet))
Chimney up to the roof. Exit via a hand crack. Continue up the crack to a belay ledge with bush and two bolt station. 5.10

Pitch 3 (The Chimney, 50 feet)
Walk a few feet inside a clean and classic chimney. Climb the chimney, following a thin crack for pro. Make a couple of mantles that end at a two bolt station. 5.8

Pitch 4 (Freight Train Flare, 75 feet))
Stem up and past the roof using the wide-hands crack. Continue up the overhanging flare on perfect rock (crux). The angle and climbing ease as the rock becomes sandy near the two bolt anchor. 5.10+

Pitch 5 (Optional Scramble, 30 feet)
It is a short scramble to either the top of the cliff or a ledge overlooking the canyon (belay recommended). Downclimb back to the anchor atop pitch 4.

Descent
One 60m rope will get you down. Rappel each of pitches 4 and 3. Walk back to the anchor atop pitch 2. Rappel straight down to a lower ledge with large bush and two bolt station. Rappel from here to the ground.

Location

The crag and route start should be obvious from the overview photo.

As of 2015 there is no climbers path from the Spring Creek wash to the base of the climb. This necessitates a 10 minute bushwhack up the hill.

Protection

Bring a double set of cams with extra hand and fist sizes for pitches 2 and 4, respectively. A #5 Friend or old style #4 Camalot will provide some peace of mind on both pitches 1 and 4. A few wires and/or TCUs are useful on pitch 3.
the professor
  5.10+
the professor  
  5.10+
Here's some history:
Matt-from-Pennsylvania spotted the initial pitches. He and I climbed them in 2003. We ran out of daylight and retreated after two pitches. Matt moved to Oregon shortly thereafter.

A year later my son Rigel and I completed the upper two amazing and completely hidden pitches. It was a fabulous find on a fabulous, memorable day (in retrospect, all the more so because my beloved Rigel was killed in an automobile accident in 2006). To be honest, I used tension on the last pitch, so the FFA waited until Labor Day weekend of 2006. Scott Greenhalgh led all four pitches and I took photos (unfortunately all we had was a sub-mega-pixel camera).

I returned two weeks later and led the route, but left a 1.5 friend stuck in the last pitch (it walked in deep and I didn't bring a cleaning tool). Fast forward nine years to 2015. My Canadian buddy Jerry and I returned to the route to make the fourth ascent and get that stuck cam. Jerry took some good photos, but the cam was gone! Evidently our ascent was not the fourth after all!

Quality discussion:
The first pitch is good, the second is great, and the upper pitches are classic on superb varnished sandstone. The final pitch is burly (you will be puffing like a freight train) but requires no OW technique. The route position is outstanding with a summit. Oct 21, 2015
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Nice to see some real multi pitch climbs .. on MP ..quite rare these days Oct 22, 2015
karl kvashay
cedar city, utah
karl kvashay   cedar city, utah
Looks Great! Oct 25, 2015
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
Fun route in a scenic setting. Thanks for adding this.

Just a thought on the anchor situation. Why not have a two bolt anchor at the top of P1 slightly lower than the bolt at the better stance? The ‘gear back up’ is in some questionable rock. Also you could rap back to P1 ( with a mild pengi ), then rap back to your packs. Thus avoiding the additional rap station that drops you into the bushes.

There are some cool pictographs just uphill from the route. Apr 23, 2017
the professor
  5.10+
the professor  
  5.10+
Response to greg t:

I'm OK with a second bolt at the belay for P1. Consider this as an open invitation to the public to add that bolt (and rappel chains to boot). It might take a couple of years if you wait for me to do it.

While on the topic, the two bolt anchor atop P4 could use chains as well. Aug 31, 2017

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