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Routes in Spring Creek

Restoration of American Liberty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brutal Edge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaccard Hand-O-Lin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Deal, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
One Messiah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Raw Deal, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rigel's Wall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Deal, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Matt Barley, et al
Page Views: 147 total · 5/month
Shared By: the professor on Oct 22, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Overall rating is III 5.11 or 5.9 A0.

P1: The initial move is 5.11 (free) or A0 (yarding on some cams) which gains a wide crack followed by a short chimney and another wide crack (5.8 or 5.9). Belay at a two bolt station (which needs new webbing or chains). 100 feet

P2: Climb the 5.9 crack to the right of the anchors which changes to a chimney. 100 feet

P3: A short 5.5 pitch leads to a large ledge with trees for belay. 50 feet

P4: The hand crack continues at 5.8 and ends on another ledge. 100 feet

P5: This pitch climbs on the nose of the point, fun 5.7 slab and incipient cracks. 70 feet

P6: Climbs more crack to the POINT, or opt for the slab variation at 5.7. 70 feet

Location

The buttress containing One Messiah lies just across the canyon from Rigel's Wall.

Normally, Spring Creek starts flowing maybe 200 yards east of the initial narrows from a system of springs (hence the name). Uphill from this point is all dry wash except during storms or reservoir releases. Near the start of the dry section, the south canyon wall extends into the wash. The first pitch crack lies on this cliff and is obvious (see beta photo).

Protection

Bring a standard Zion-style free rack. Most of the belays will require gear. The descent is a walk-off with scrambling and perhaps some short rappels from trees.

This is an adventure-route with sand, lichen, loose rock, and runouts on easy terrain. Route finding skill is recommended.

Photos

Some history:
Matt-from-Pennsylvania established this route in 2002-3 with a variety of partners. I was the partner for the first three pitches and have described them from memory. But I have not done the upper pitches and am relying on Matt's account from rockclimbing.com. In particular, I don't know any details of the descent from the top. On the other hand the route can be rappelled from pitch three because that is how we descended during the first attempt. Oct 22, 2015

More About One Messiah

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