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Routes in Mammoth Rock

Boromir S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bridge of Sighs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Peregrine/Raptors nest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Proboscis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Worsfold and Sean Burke
Page Views: 1,325 total, 50/month
Shared By: Stas Yurkevich on Oct 16, 2015 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

Bolted route right from Peregrine.
Two bolt-protected slightly run out pitches in a great setting with fragile holds. Bolts locations make for some difficult and spicy clips. Belay on the top (of second pitch) from a big hole and walk off on descend.
First pitch:
Move to the left from second bolt is super cool- a lot of air under and great holds.
60 meters rope is enough for top-roping the first (most fun) pitch.
Could be done in one 58-meters pitch with 12+ quick-draws.

Second pitch:
Rock is fragile. The move after first bolt was the hardest for me. After that it goes way easier. At some point route goes way left from the bolt - put your longest sling to reduce rope drag or back clean it.

Location

In middle between Peregrine and Bridge of Sighs routs. ArĂȘte between two caves. Route could be easily seen from the trail. Bolts are camouflaged to the color or the rock.

Protection

9-14 quick draws
Jacob Glazebnik
Oakland, CA
  5.10c PG13
Jacob Glazebnik   Oakland, CA
  5.10c PG13
Super fun. Thin, technical, brave. Really well protected, but be careful once you move into "easier" terrain above the anchors. It may be easy climbing but, you'll find many spots where all 3 points of contact are on choss. Dec 27, 2016
Todd Worsfold
  5.10d PG13
Todd Worsfold  
  5.10d PG13
Although the guidebook (and this site) give "Proboscis" a 10.c rating, I feel that it's a sandbag at that grade and that one ought to be comfortable on 10.d or 11.a to lead it. Nov 6, 2015
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Good route and well protected at the hard bits. Actually, its well protected in general and the rock is generally good, but you need to be careful on the easy terrain (5.7) as there are some friable holds. A couple more ascents will make this an area classic. Nov 2, 2015